Broadheads for Elk?
- Thread starter huntbux
- Start date
I understand and am not looking for cheaper broadheads just a place where they may sell them cheaper. IE like looking on e-bay or an online shop with a lower price. That is all.
I have some montecs I'll sell you.You will have to clean the blood off and resharpen but they're cheap,lol.I think I lost one Montec out of 6 that went thru my African animals.And the one barely has a nick out of the tip.I have some resharpening to do before elk season
stickslinger
New member
- Joined
- May 1, 2012
- Messages
- 17
meat seekers for me. i havent had much to shoot at but it did take down my bull last year. it only ran about thirty yards.
BOHNTR
Well-known member
That may be, Nate......however if someone is not well versed at hand sharpening heads to the proper sharpness/angle, they are much better off with replaceable blade heads.
To the original poster, ANY of the heads mentioned in this entire post are quality heads that will perform very well. There isn't one head that will kill something "deader" than the other. It comes down to personal preference. Pick one with exceptional flight characteristics, sight them in, and send one at an elk! Good luck in your search.
Try http://www.eders.com/ I buy most of my shafts and broadheads here. Very competitive pricing. I like them because you can buy just the shaft or have it completely outfitted with choice of wraps, fletch colors etc. I fletch and wrap my own, but I think they are a good outfit with good prices..
No arguement at all Roy, but with a 60 deg blade angle they just lay perfectly flat on a stone. Pretty hard to mess up. But if you just dont want to sharpen, replaceable blades are the way to go.
LNGBOWFLYER
New member
Slick Trick 125 grain Standards for this guy. Shot this elk at 18yds. He was quartered away from me. Busted through a rib quartered up through both lungs, punched through the offside shoulder blade and embedded in the hide. The head looked fine. Spun it amd it spun true. I replaced the blades and used that dame head on two more deer. Just replaced the blades after each kill. Now its my lucky head and is ready for this year.
LNGBOWFLYER
New member
Forgot to mention for the 40yds that the elk ran/lived that blood was pouring out of that hole like a garden hose.
Why be willing to sell if you like them so much?
THWAK1
New member
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2011
- Messages
- 787
A-con
New member
Thoughts on Broadheads
Few subjects generate more debate or customer/brand loyalty then broad heads. Everybody has an opinion on them, so I thought I would post mine. Each different design has its advantages and disadvantages
Disclaimer: Lots of people on this forum have more experience and mechanical expertise than me, so take it for what it’s worth
SHARPNESS *
Sharper is better, it’s that simple. That being said, sharp enough is good enough, if a head is reasonably sharp it will do the job. The generally accepted standard is if it will shave hair off your arm, it’s more than sharp enough. Another “Sharpness” issue is the ability to get acceptable sharpness on a 60% edge angle like G-5 Montec or Snuffer type heads. The fact is, while you can get them “Sharp enough”, they can never be made as sharp as traditional, replaceable blade heads that use a 30% or less angle on the blades edge. A 60% edge WILL produce more resistance than a narrower edge.
2,3 OR 4 BLADE
Broadheads kill by severing blood veins (see PREFORMANCE ON GAME) With all due respect to Dr. Ashby, I believe 3 and 4 blade heads have an advantage over 2 blade heads because they produce a three
dimensional wound channel compared to the two dimensional wound channel of a two blade head. This causes the potential to sever veins that a two blade head might slip past without touching. It also leaves larger three dimensional entry and exit holes for better blood trails.
CUT ON CONTACT *
Possibly the most over used or misused term in regards to broad heads. Most people think this divides broad heads into two categories. I believe it’s more accurate to divide them into three.
With a true “Cut on contact” head, the first thing to contact the target is a two dimensional, single pointed sharp edge. Examples would be the old Bear Razor head and the newer Magnus Stinger.
Simi cut on contact would be heads where the first cut is made by a three dimensional sharpened edge like on the Magnus Snuffer or G-5 Montec.
Non cut on contact heads would be represented by heads with pointy or Trocar style tips like Original Muzzys or Slick Tricks.
The advantage of a true cut on contact is it produces less resistance at the initial cut, retaining more of it’s energy for penetration. The possible disadvantage is this thin blade might not be as strong, and could possibly bend or roll if serious resistance like a shoulder bone is encountered.
PENATRATION *
Penetration is more important then wound channel (see 2,3 OR 4 BLADE ) The ideal is to fully penetrate both lungs, and leave an exit wound. A massive wound channel that only occurs in one lung still leaves the animal the ability to breath with the other lung. Further more, enough penetration to cause an exit wound will produce more blood on the ground for tracking. The fact is, any reasonable combination can and should produce enough penetration on deer size game. When the quarry is larger animals like elk, the ability to penetrate should be a prime consideration.
MECHINACIAL
By all accounts, modern, well designed mechanical broad heads are reliable and deadly.
Many have larger cutting diameters than is possible with a fixed blade broad head that flies true at high speeds. Still, by design, mechanical broad heads have moving parts, parts that could fail to move properly and at the right time. Another consideration is the weak link. Pivoting blades must pivot on something, and it’s usually a tiny pin that might sheer off. Sliding blade designs need something to stop the sliding, once again, usually a very small tab or part that has the potential to break. For now, I have a hard time trusting them, maybe someday.
WEIGHT
The main consideration is picking a weight that matches the spine of your arrow (or an arrow that matches the weight of your broadhead), and produces adequate FOC. Beyond that it doesn’t matter. You should be using an arrow that has the weight properties you are looking for.
ENDORSMENTS
The worst possible reason to choose a piece of equipment is because of celebrity endorsements. Lets face it, some people would hunt with a rusty sparkplug on the end of their arrow if they were paid enough.
BLADE ANGLE
Blade angle is worth considering to a point, but don’t over do it.
NEW vs. OLD SCHOOL
Over the last ten or fifteen years, new designs that are shorter, with smaller cutting diameters have become popular. Because they have less surface area to be affected by air flow, they tend to be more accurate. Most of these new heads are 1 1/8” or smaller. The term “field point accurate” is very common now, where twenty years ago, most fixed heads were 1 ¼” up to 1 ½” and it was largely assumed that it was impossible to get a broad head to hit the same as a field point. Smaller diameters serve two purposes, the help accuracy and increase penetration. Precision manufacturing techniques produce heads that spine true right out of the package. I’m a big fan of these newer broad heads.
ANADOTAL EVIDANCE
Every different shot on a game animal is different. There are so many possibilities that comparing different broadheads performance within a limited sampling is worthless. In other words, just because someone says he had three quick one shot kills with brand X, but lost a deer with brand Y doesn’t mean brand X is any better than brand Y.
PREFORMANCE ON GAME
Broadheads kill by severing blood veins. Blood loss reduces or stops oxygen from getting to the brain and other major organs. Internal bleeding can also fill the lungs with blood, causing the same effect. The more veins a broadhead can cut, the faster death will occur. Larger cutting diameter and/or more cutting surface gives the potential to cut more veins within the wound channel, but also cause more resistance, possibly restricting penetration.
Broad head choice should be made considering the game hunted, and the momentum of your arrow.
Lower poundage bows with less arrow momentum should lean towards cut on contact, smaller cutting diameters and fewer blades to increase penetration. Tougher animals require tougher broad heads.
SHOT PLACMENT
Shot placement and angle is far more important that all of this. The fact is a cheap, dull, bargain basement broad head put through both lungs will be much more effective then the very best broad head in the guts.
Few subjects generate more debate or customer/brand loyalty then broad heads. Everybody has an opinion on them, so I thought I would post mine. Each different design has its advantages and disadvantages
Disclaimer: Lots of people on this forum have more experience and mechanical expertise than me, so take it for what it’s worth
SHARPNESS *
Sharper is better, it’s that simple. That being said, sharp enough is good enough, if a head is reasonably sharp it will do the job. The generally accepted standard is if it will shave hair off your arm, it’s more than sharp enough. Another “Sharpness” issue is the ability to get acceptable sharpness on a 60% edge angle like G-5 Montec or Snuffer type heads. The fact is, while you can get them “Sharp enough”, they can never be made as sharp as traditional, replaceable blade heads that use a 30% or less angle on the blades edge. A 60% edge WILL produce more resistance than a narrower edge.
2,3 OR 4 BLADE
Broadheads kill by severing blood veins (see PREFORMANCE ON GAME) With all due respect to Dr. Ashby, I believe 3 and 4 blade heads have an advantage over 2 blade heads because they produce a three
dimensional wound channel compared to the two dimensional wound channel of a two blade head. This causes the potential to sever veins that a two blade head might slip past without touching. It also leaves larger three dimensional entry and exit holes for better blood trails.
CUT ON CONTACT *
Possibly the most over used or misused term in regards to broad heads. Most people think this divides broad heads into two categories. I believe it’s more accurate to divide them into three.
With a true “Cut on contact” head, the first thing to contact the target is a two dimensional, single pointed sharp edge. Examples would be the old Bear Razor head and the newer Magnus Stinger.
Simi cut on contact would be heads where the first cut is made by a three dimensional sharpened edge like on the Magnus Snuffer or G-5 Montec.
Non cut on contact heads would be represented by heads with pointy or Trocar style tips like Original Muzzys or Slick Tricks.
The advantage of a true cut on contact is it produces less resistance at the initial cut, retaining more of it’s energy for penetration. The possible disadvantage is this thin blade might not be as strong, and could possibly bend or roll if serious resistance like a shoulder bone is encountered.
PENATRATION *
Penetration is more important then wound channel (see 2,3 OR 4 BLADE ) The ideal is to fully penetrate both lungs, and leave an exit wound. A massive wound channel that only occurs in one lung still leaves the animal the ability to breath with the other lung. Further more, enough penetration to cause an exit wound will produce more blood on the ground for tracking. The fact is, any reasonable combination can and should produce enough penetration on deer size game. When the quarry is larger animals like elk, the ability to penetrate should be a prime consideration.
MECHINACIAL
By all accounts, modern, well designed mechanical broad heads are reliable and deadly.
Many have larger cutting diameters than is possible with a fixed blade broad head that flies true at high speeds. Still, by design, mechanical broad heads have moving parts, parts that could fail to move properly and at the right time. Another consideration is the weak link. Pivoting blades must pivot on something, and it’s usually a tiny pin that might sheer off. Sliding blade designs need something to stop the sliding, once again, usually a very small tab or part that has the potential to break. For now, I have a hard time trusting them, maybe someday.
WEIGHT
The main consideration is picking a weight that matches the spine of your arrow (or an arrow that matches the weight of your broadhead), and produces adequate FOC. Beyond that it doesn’t matter. You should be using an arrow that has the weight properties you are looking for.
ENDORSMENTS
The worst possible reason to choose a piece of equipment is because of celebrity endorsements. Lets face it, some people would hunt with a rusty sparkplug on the end of their arrow if they were paid enough.
BLADE ANGLE
Blade angle is worth considering to a point, but don’t over do it.
NEW vs. OLD SCHOOL
Over the last ten or fifteen years, new designs that are shorter, with smaller cutting diameters have become popular. Because they have less surface area to be affected by air flow, they tend to be more accurate. Most of these new heads are 1 1/8” or smaller. The term “field point accurate” is very common now, where twenty years ago, most fixed heads were 1 ¼” up to 1 ½” and it was largely assumed that it was impossible to get a broad head to hit the same as a field point. Smaller diameters serve two purposes, the help accuracy and increase penetration. Precision manufacturing techniques produce heads that spine true right out of the package. I’m a big fan of these newer broad heads.
ANADOTAL EVIDANCE
Every different shot on a game animal is different. There are so many possibilities that comparing different broadheads performance within a limited sampling is worthless. In other words, just because someone says he had three quick one shot kills with brand X, but lost a deer with brand Y doesn’t mean brand X is any better than brand Y.
PREFORMANCE ON GAME
Broadheads kill by severing blood veins. Blood loss reduces or stops oxygen from getting to the brain and other major organs. Internal bleeding can also fill the lungs with blood, causing the same effect. The more veins a broadhead can cut, the faster death will occur. Larger cutting diameter and/or more cutting surface gives the potential to cut more veins within the wound channel, but also cause more resistance, possibly restricting penetration.
Broad head choice should be made considering the game hunted, and the momentum of your arrow.
Lower poundage bows with less arrow momentum should lean towards cut on contact, smaller cutting diameters and fewer blades to increase penetration. Tougher animals require tougher broad heads.
SHOT PLACMENT
Shot placement and angle is far more important that all of this. The fact is a cheap, dull, bargain basement broad head put through both lungs will be much more effective then the very best broad head in the guts.
DreaminofMT6X6s
Member
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2010
- Messages
- 800
Damn straight
thecrittergitter
Well-known member
Like Roy said, most of the heads mentioned are great heads. Your shot placement will be far more important than which head to use in todays market.
I have had nothing but great luck with the Magnus Stingers and they are less than $10 each.......
I have had nothing but great luck with the Magnus Stingers and they are less than $10 each.......
drahthaar
Active member
G5 strikers here. I just like them. Accurate and durable. Practice practice, then replace the blades before season, knowing they are SHARP. Broadheads have to be sharp, IMO.
Shot placement, and sharp.
Shot placement, and sharp.
