Broadheads hitting left only at longer distances?

[Bullshot]

Listen to RK

 

[Deleted member 20812]

Also could be that your inserts aren’t square with your arrow. Having a broadhead not square to your arrow can cause planing like you have that won’t show up with field points.

Another thing to consider is having the proper spine stiffness. Too weak or too stiff of an arrow can cause this issue that you’re having as well.

This would likely cause inconsistent planing though. It wouldn’t be repeatedly left.

 

[Irrelevant]

Is it too late to suggest putting down the bow entirely, eliminating black magic from your life, and just grabbing a rifle? Lol

 

[Bhoesl]

Thanks for all the advice everyone. I played around with the rest a bit last night and got it shooting much more consistent. Still probably not quite perfect but its getting there.
Thanks again!

 

[Fire_9]

The only thing I'll add is nock tuning. Don't be afraid to rotate your arrow to the next vane. It can make a pretty big difference at times

 

[Irrelevant]

The only thing I'll add is nock tuning. Don't be afraid to rotate your arrow to the next vane. It can make a pretty big difference at times

Yep, level 2 3/4 black magic

 

[NYyotekiller]

This would likely cause inconsistent planing though. It wouldn’t be repeatedly left.

It would be if you were only shooting one arrow. You are correct though if shooting multiple arrows.

 

[pabearhunter]

Maybe you are TORQUING the bow.

 

[nrpate05]

Wouldn't moving the rest cause it to be out of alignment with the string and then you'd get wobbly arrow flight? I'm a noob, so just curious-

 

[Deleted member 20812]

Not micro adjustments.

Wouldn't moving the rest cause it to be out of alignment with the string and then you'd get wobbly arrow flight? I'm a noob, so just curious-

 

[winmag]

Coriolis effect. I usually don't see it under 300 yards with my Bowtech, but maybe my 95 pound draw weight minimizes the error?

But seriously, it's just slightly out of tune. Figure out a way to measure or mark the rest so you can move it tiny amounts to fix it.

 

[SAJ-99]

Not micro adjustments.

Just exactly how wide is a gnat’s ass?

 

[HSi-ESi]

All the above advice is good. Small adjustments based on the info you've given so far.

I would look at slight changes to arrow tuning. If you can add 5-10 grains (or subtract 5-10 grains) from the front of the arrow. Very small changes to the "spine" of the arrow can help bring everything in line.

You didn't mention what broadhead's you are using - but I am assuming fixed blade.

The weight system that Gold-tip has for screwing into the back of the inserts works great to micro-tune. Might be worth a look.

 

[rogerthat]

Here is my .02, archery should be a close range game anyway despite all. Hunting is not a controlled situation ever. Do yourself a favor and only take shots so close that even a non broadhead tuned bow won’t matter. (You should still broadhead tune your bow anyway and practice at distance). You will thank me for this advice over a career. You will still probably wound something and it’s gut wrenching but maybe not and at least you have done everything you can to respect the game you hunt. I’m sure I will get flamed by all the guys sticking five arrows in a dime at 100 with the bow they bought last week but the critter can move. I don’t care how much you practice or good of a shot. Happy hunting

 

[BackofBeyond]

Just exactly how wide is a gnat’s ass?

About three short and curly

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Wouldn't moving the rest cause it to be out of alignment with the string and then you'd get wobbly arrow flight? I'm a noob, so just curious-

The goal of tuning is to get the rest in line with the path traveled by the nocking point during the shot. This can be achieved via various combinations of adjusting rest windage/elevation, nocking point location, cam timing, and cam lean/lateral position.

For left/right alignment, a purist would say the "correct" method is to adjust rest windage to the manufacturer's recommended centershot measurement (usually 13/16") then adjust the cams' lateral position (via shimming) and/or lean (via yoke tuning) as needed to get the desired tuning result. But adjusting cams (usually) requires a bow press and more time/effort compared to just adjusting rest windage. It's often possible to get a good tune (i.e., bullethole paper tear, same bareshaft and fletched shaft POI, same field point and broadhead POI) solely by adjusting the rest without touching the cams, but this sometimes results in the arrow pointing significantly above/below level or left/right of (apparent) center when the bow is at rest. IMO it ain't stupid if it works though (even if it looks stupid and the purists say it's not the "proper" technique).

 

[kiwi hunter]

The goal of tuning is to get the rest in line with the path traveled by the nocking point during the shot. This can be achieved via various combinations of adjusting rest windage/elevation, nocking point location, cam timing, and cam lean/lateral position.

For left/right alignment, a purist would say the "correct" method is to adjust rest windage to the manufacturer's recommended centershot measurement (usually 13/16") then adjust the cams' lateral position (via shimming) and/or lean (via yoke tuning) as needed to get the desired tuning result. But adjusting cams (usually) requires a bow press and more time/effort compared to just adjusting rest windage. It's often possible to get a good tune (i.e., bullethole paper tear, same bareshaft and fletched shaft POI, same field point and broadhead POI) solely by adjusting the rest without touching the cams, but this sometimes results in the arrow pointing significantly above/below level or left/right of (apparent) center when the bow is at rest. IMO it ain't stupid if it works though (even it it looks stupid and the purists say it's not the "proper" technique).
View attachment 287533

That's called lateral thinking.

 

[kevine001]

I agree that it could just be a micro adjustment on your rest. Basically, paper tune your bow. Plus, broadheads will plane. One other issue, that I'm not sure was considered is wind. I noticed it more with the G5 M3 solid three blades. The Montecs were affected too. When I shot 20-30, no issue. When I shot 45+, there was more wind on the range further out and they were slightly affected...or I was just not shooting well. But the wind 50 yards away was different than 20 yards at my range (canyons).