Sitka Gear Turkey Tool Belt

Do you point blank zero your rifles ?

Do you use "point blank" to zero you rifles?

  • Yes always

    Votes: 22 27.5%
  • No

    Votes: 34 42.5%
  • Only hunting rifles

    Votes: 12 15.0%
  • Never heard of it

    Votes: 12 15.0%

  • Total voters
    80

D4570

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http://https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Point-blank_range

http://https://shooterscalculator.com/point-blank-range.php

My 8mm rem mag and the 200 and 220 gr bullets for a 5" kill spot say around 230 yards for zero.
That puts it about 2.5" high at 100.
and out to 300 and still in the 5" zone.
No adjustment needed. It seams to work but I tend to shoot high as a mater of course, so I make sure I'm not fudging when I aim more so when It's 100 or less.
On the 6mm and 22/250 It says 197 for the 22 and 220 for the 6 for a 4" zone. that's 1.8" high at 100.
BUT that's a miss on a prairie dog at 100.
For a 2 inch window it calls for just under an inch at 100 and 187 PBR .
I think when I get started on my New bullets for the 22 that's what I will keep it to. The 6 is death at 250 so no change on that after the scope swap.
What say you?
 
My 280 ackley is zeroed at 300. Right at 4.2” high at 140 and 9.5” low at 400.

No need to dial, or even range for that matter if it’s reasonably close. I cap my shots at 400 so I’d have the range finder out at that point.
 
My typical shot is 100 yards and many times less than that so I want my gun to hit dead on at 100 yards.

Then I shoot it at 5, 50, 200, 300, and 400 yards to see where it hits. Seems stupid? Shoot at a buck under your tree some time and tell me what your brain is thinking about when you pull the trigger....lol
 
Point blank zeros are good but have kind of gone by the wayside since rangefinders and ballistic calculators became affordable. Dialing for long range shooting will always be more accurate than holdover or point blank. But sometimes that accuracy isn't needed (if you hit 1" low on an elk who cares). And sometimes the shooter is too rushed/excited to dial properly.

My big game rifles shoot flat enough with a 200 yard zero that I just point and shoot out to 300 yards, after that I'm dialing. Get a perfect no-wind zero at 100, dial up to 200 and make my drop chart based on a 200 yard zero. Then range and dial elevation correction while hunting. Dial wind correction if its steady wind, hold wind correction with the reticle if its gusting.
 
Point blank zeros are good but have kind of gone by the wayside since rangefinders and ballistic calculators became affordable. Dialing for long range shooting will always be more accurate than holdover or point blank. But sometimes that accuracy isn't needed (if you hit 1" low on an elk who cares). And sometimes the shooter is too rushed/excited to dial properly.

My big game rifles shoot flat enough with a 200 yard zero that I just point and shoot out to 300 yards, after that I'm dialing. Get a perfect no-wind zero at 100, dial up to 200 and make my drop chart based on a 200 yard zero. Then range and dial elevation correction while hunting. Dial wind correction if its steady wind, hold wind correction with the reticle if its gusting.
Pretty much this for me depending on rifle and caliber might go 150 yards or up to a 300 yard zero for flatter shooting set ups.
 
I have 2 rifles from the 1980s/1990s with old Leupold 3X9 scopes.
I sight them 3 inches high at 100 yards and most of my kills have been less than 200 yards.

I do have one rifle with the scope having a BDC reticle so that one is sighted 0 at 100 yards.
 
The BDC reticles on my scopes use a 200 yard zero.
Doing that allows the BDC to align up at different distances.

My other scopes use a MOA reticle. Zero at 100 yards and hold for distance.
 
If find that MPBR sighting matches my shooting ability just fine. And my critter-finding ability. Anything beyond 275 yards is getting a ways out there, at least for me.
 
Mine is 200 yard zero for 30-06. 100 for the MZ & 30-30.

I have always started my sighting in process @ 50 yards with a new rifle or scope. This is as close as point blank for sighting I have ever done.

Confidant to 500 yard game shots on the -06, farthest kill 405. 200 yards on MZ. Both scoped.
 
I don’t like for my peak to be very high, and most of my shoots have been 200-300yds, so I zero at 200yds for big game rifles.
 
My 280 ackley is zeroed at 300. Right at 4.2” high at 140 and 9.5” low at 400.

No need to dial, or even range for that matter if it’s reasonably close. I cap my shots at 400 so I’d have the range finder out at that point.
What type of load are you running in your .280ai? It seems to be really flat compared to my load dead on at 200yrd 9.0” at 300yrd.
 
What type of load are you running in your .280ai? It seems to be really flat compared to my load dead on at 200yrd 9.0” at 300yrd.
140 gr bullet at 3190
 

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Similar with 30-06 and a 165 gr
 

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Similar in a 257 ackley and a 117 gr
 

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I think the MPBR method works better for the one rifle-hunter. I don’t want to worry about impacts over my point of aim more than an inch or two. Any more than that, I’m not interested. I zero my scoped centerfires at 200 yards. And then spend time at the range to learn how far each load drops after that as well as using the different parts of my reticle in conjunction with magnification to line up with impacts at known distances. I don’t have scopes that need dialing and I don’t shoot super flat shooting cartridges. It’s not the most efficient way, but it does work for me.
 
I zero at 200 yards. About 2" high at 100 yards and 6" low at 300 yards with the ammo I am using in both my .300 Win Mag and .270 Win. 300 yards is my limit on deer.
 
What type of load are you running in your .280ai? It seems to be really flat compared to my load dead on at 200yrd 9.0” at 300yrd.
I’m shooting a 180gr VLD at 2950fps, giving me 5.91” drop at 300yds with a 200yd zero.
 

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