Where's your line for pressure?

Dougfirtree

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I guess this is a poll, of sorts. I'm curious about where your personal line is when it comes to pressure. On a scale that starts with a slightly flattened primer and ends with a broken rifle where is the point at which you stop shooting? Flattened primers? Cratering? sticky bolt? Extractor marks? Velocity readings? When you're new to reloading, there's a lot of, 'well, this is often a pressure sign, but sometimes not.' Today, I stopped shooting for the first time while testing a new load and I would find it helpful to hear how my "line" compares with that of others. Thanks!
 
I hunt with non-magnum calibers. I like my loads as hot as I can get them and still have good accuracy. I currently am shooting max loads and have not ventured any further. I watch for flattened primers and extractor marks.
 
Primers are a poor way to estimate pressure, by the time you see real indications of high pressure it's too late. A flattened primer can be caused by excessive head space so that one doesn't help much. Extruded or pierced primers are a better sign of high pressure but they can also be caused by worn firing pins and firing pin holes. I prefer to look for marks on the head (flattening of the lettering, shiny spots, etc.) and/or a sticky bolt. This is where a chronograph can save your bacon. Most of us will usually have some reasonable idea of what speeds our ammunition should produce, if you see speeds that are substantially higher (100 fps or more) then you're getting higher pressures.
 
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Primers are a poor way to estimate pressure, by the time you see real indications of high pressure it's too late. A flattened primer can be caused by excessive head space so that one doesn't help much. Extruded or pierced primers are a better sign of high pressure but they can also be caused by worn firing pins and firing pin holes. I prefer to look for marks on the head (flattening of the lettering, shiny spots, etc.) and/or a sticky bolt. This is where a chronograph can save your bacon. Most of us will usually have some reasonable idea of what speeds our ammunition should produce, if you see speeds that are substantially higher (100 fps or more) then you're getting higher pressures.

Yep. mtmuley
 
I don’t pay a lot of attention to primers, extractor marks and changes in bolt lift pressure are positive pressure signs. Primers can be deceiving..
 
If I'm playing outside of published loads, I use a 10x loupe to inspect the case head for signs of pressure as noted above.
 
Ejector marks, hard bolt lift and case head expansion. Velocity is a good indicator also.
 
A bit flattened primer does not necessarily mean high pressure. But excessive flat, like the edges of the primer hide the edge of the primer pocket, do. The extractor mark and hard bolt lift as sign's certainly are. Bad part of it is we have no way of testing pressure at home. Sure we can say we have signs but what the pressure really might be, we haven't a clue. I know my loads are high pressure reason being I shoot my primer pocket's loose while the rest of the case is still fine.
 
I'm on the Nosler forum and under their Reloading section there are a boatload of guys who will run a Quick Loads program, just for the asking. Whatever QL states as max, is where I stop, period. Sometimes sooner, if I'm getting any indications.
 
Velocity.

It's like guys making 7mmRM numbers out of a 7mm/08 - "with no signs of pressure". They always get huffy when you point out the velocity is their sign of pressure.
 
I'm on the Nosler forum and under their Reloading section there are a boatload of guys who will run a Quick Loads program, just for the asking. Whatever QL states as max, is where I stop, period. Sometimes sooner, if I'm getting any indications.

I wouldnt trust quickload to give you any sort of accurate answer other than a rough idea.
The best indicator of pressure is velocity. Say for instance that your getting 3200fps from a 130gr bullet out of a 270 using H4831 powder. Chances are your over SAAMI max pressures.
Certainly if your bolt lift is stiff on a rifle that isnt stiff ordinarily or you have ejector marks you are well over pressure. With that said i have never had weatherby factory ammo not show ejector marks, but Norma Brass is pretty soft.
 
How tough your brass is will have some influence. Federal brass back in the 70's was so soft it would sow the ejector hole location with virtually any listed load. I used to toss the case when it had four ejector shiny spots. Winchester brass would not show any sign of being fired with the same loads. Nowadays I look for primers flattened to the point of no radius, any mark on the case head and sticky or hard bolt lift. I look for these signs in brass already fired in the rifle one time. I have had some factory ammo that was way too hot in the past.
 
I stop when Hephaesteus whispers that the fire is too bright.

or I do the same as rammac. Depending on the day.
 

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