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Ol’ Smokey: deodorizing an old gun?

FairWeather

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Eugene, OR
I’d been jonesing for a lever gun for a while, pretty much ever since I foolishly sold my old Western Field 30-30 in 2017. So I went down to the pawn shop today and traded in a few cheap guns I wasn’t using and came home with this 1977 Marlin 336 in 30-30.

It’s very well used, so not prettiest condition, but that doesn’t bother me. I plan to use it, not display it. What does bother me is the smell. This thing reeks like old cigarette smoke! I took some paper towels and rubbing alcohol to it, that took off a good amount of brown gunk, but it still stinks. Especially the wood.

I’ve cleaned up a few guitars that were disgustingly smoky before, and with those I’d usually just scrub them down with alcohol then let them hang outside in the sun. The fresh air and UV would get the last stank out. But, that doesn’t really seem like a good option with a rifle.

I’ve thought about using about baking soda, but I’m not sure it’s a good idea due to the open pores in the wood. I’m not sure I’d ever get it all out. Any suggestions on how to remedy this?

As a last resort I could buy a new stock, but I’d hate to do that.
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Put it in a hardshell case with dryer sheets. It's an old club musician's trick to get the cigarette smell out of their instruments.
 
Take the wood off, then use Murphy oil soap or white vinegar and water 50/50. You don't want to soak it, but it may take a few cycles.

If that doesn't work, it'll need stripped and refinished.
This thing is pretty much already stripped. Would just refinishing the wood solve the issue then? I’ve always wanted to try using TruOil.
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This thing is pretty much already stripped. Would just refinishing the wood solve the issue then? I’ve always wanted to try using TruOil.
View attachment 302882
It would help seal it up. I'd pull off the butt plate and grip cap, then give it a thorough cleaning with acetone first. Lightly scrape what's left of the finish, then hit it with a grey scotchbrite. Don't go at it like you're killing snakes, just an even scuff will do. I don't see a reason to touch it with sandpaper just from the photo.

A lot of people say to use 0000 steel wool but technology has advanced past that. Scotchbrite doesn't leave little pieces of metal stuck in the grain.

Make sure you seal the endgrain, and take care around edges and corners not to round them.
 
It would help seal it up. I'd pull off the butt plate and grip cap, then give it a thorough cleaning with acetone first. Lightly scrape what's left of the finish, then hit it with a grey scotchbrite. Don't go at it like you're killing snakes, just an even scuff will do. I don't see a reason to touch it with sandpaper just from the photo.

A lot of people say to use 0000 steel wool but technology has advanced past that. Scotchbrite doesn't leave little pieces of metal stuck in the grain.

Make sure you seal the endgrain, and take care around edges and corners not to round them.
Very helpful, thanks!
 
Before putting in the effort for the refinish, I wanted to see how it shoots. I took out to the range today and I’m happy to say it shoots about as well as I could hope. Shooting 3-4” groups at 100yd with 150gn Hornady whitetail.

I’m not the best shot, but can coax 1-1.5” groups out of my 308 savage 11. Given that the 336 isn’t a floated barrel, and has a heavier trigger, these groups seem about right. They’re tight enough to hit a deer’s vitals within the effective range of the round, so good enough for me.

I did discover there’s a crack running along the bottom of the forend, so I’m going to glue that up before I finish it. I’m now thinking I’m going to use minwax wipe on poly to do the refin because: A) I already have it on hand, and B) it’s more waterproof than truoil and I’m in Oregon, so it’s guaranteed to be raining while I’m hunting.
 
Nothing has taken care of smoke for me better than ozone. I have a couple generators I use for hunting gear. However, I bought a used truck from a smoker at a deal because it smelled awful. I was about ready to replace the seat covers when I decided to give ozone a try. Worked amazing. Since then I use it on anything that stinks. Even deodorized a refrigerator that had some stuff rot in it.

I don’t think there’s anything rubber on that gun so it should be fine for an ozone treatment.
 
Some of those old Marlins will turn in a 3-shot group under an inch more often than not with matched handload. I have one and have seen a few others firsthand. Less than 2" with factory can be expected if you tend to the details.
 
Nothing has taken care of smoke for me better than ozone. I have a couple generators I use for hunting gear. However, I bought a used truck from a smoker at a deal because it smelled awful. I was about ready to replace the seat covers when I decided to give ozone a try. Worked amazing. Since then I use it on anything that stinks. Even deodorized a refrigerator that had some stuff rot in it.

I don’t think there’s anything rubber on that gun so it should be fine for an ozone treatment.
I’ve considered buying an ozone generator, but the soap & vinegar have helped quite a lot. At this point I’m think to just proceed with the refinish and seal the remaining smell away from my face.
 
Once you get the surface gunk off, if there's still smell I'd recommend getting a small ozone generator and using that to get the residual smell.

When I had a house fire a few years back I learned that's what am the professionals use to get the smell of smoke off clothes, walls, electronics, etc.
 
Go get some Watco Danish oil, pour some into a Mason jar, and add another 1/3 Spar urethane. You'll get water protection and it looks way better than poly. Another good easy option is teak oil.

They're both wipe on finishes. Saturate the wood, keep it wet (add more to any part that looks like it's soaking in) and let it set for 20mins. Then wipe it off. Let it cure out for 6-8hrs and repeat.
 
If twas me and they're interchangeable I'd get a different stock [used or new] with the straight pistol grip instead of the curved one. My preference for a lever action firearm.
 
Go get some Watco Danish oil, pour some into a Mason jar, and add another 1/3 Spar urethane. You'll get water protection and it looks way better than poly. Another good easy option is teak oil.

They're both wipe on finishes. Saturate the wood, keep it wet (add more to any part that looks like it's soaking in) and let it set for 20mins. Then wipe it off. Let it cure out for 6-8hrs and repeat.
Pretty sure I’ve got a can of danish oil around somewhere, but I’m liking what I’m seeing for results from the teak oil in a google image search.
 
If twas me and they're interchangeable I'd get a different stock [used or new] with the straight pistol grip instead of the curved one. My preference for a lever action firearm.
While I agree they look slick, I’d have to change the lever, too, if I did that. I’ve never owned a straight stock to speak to how they feel to me when shooting, but this one’s pretty comfy as is so I think I’ll keep it.
 
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