New Bow

cadman59501

New member
Joined
Dec 25, 2009
Messages
298
Location
Glasgow, MT
So I finally bought my first bow, but am a little unsure on arrows. The guy at the store was of pretty much no help. Do you guys have any suggestions on where to start, aluminum/carbon, long vanes/blazers, helical/straight?
 
Assuming your primary use will be hunting deer or bigger game ?
All carbon arrows are much more popular than aluminum, or carbon/aluminum composite.

The short stiff vanes like Blazers, Fusions or Vanetec Hps are probably the best bet for shooting broad heads, although everybody has their favorite, some people prefer real feathers.

If you want to post your bows specifications, I will run them through an archery program and give you some suggestions. I’ll need draw weight, draw length, brand and model of bow, fingers or release aid, and if you prefer a certain tip weight. Also what rest you are using.
 
Assuming your primary use will be hunting deer or bigger game ?
All carbon arrows are much more popular than aluminum, or carbon/aluminum composite.

The short stiff vanes like Blazers, Fusions or Vanetec Hps are probably the best bet for shooting broad heads, although everybody has their favorite, some people prefer real feathers.

If you want to post your bows specifications, I will run them through an archery program and give you some suggestions. I’ll need draw weight, draw length, brand and model of bow, fingers or release aid, and if you prefer a certain tip weight. Also what rest you are using.

Thanks A-con
It is a Bear GameOver, since I am just starting out I will probably have it set at about 65lbs with a 30" draw. I will also be using a release aid. I have no idea yet on what tip weights I will be shooting so any recommendations on that would be helpful, but I assume just like rifles that will probably come with a little trial and error. I plan to use it primarily for hunting deer and elk.
 
Arrow spine refers to how stiff an arrow is, with smaller numbers being stiffer.
With a 30" draw length, your going to want a really stiff arrow. Look for something with a ".300 spine, or maybe .340"
Using a program called "TAP", it shows anything less is too weak.
A 30" arrow with a .300 spine and a 100 grain tip should work good.
A 29" arrow would probably work at .340
Gold Tip "Big game" arrows are .300, also, Easton makes the "Epic" and the "Excel" in .300.
Most of the Arrow manufactures have charts that you can use to figure out the right arrow. Just remember, it's better to go a little to stiff/heavy then to go to weak.
Here are some links to check out;

http://www.backcountrybowhunting.com/articles/tools.php

http://www.goldtip.com/selection.htm
(the gold tip chart shows a .340 spine for your set up)

http://www.eastonarchery.com/products/selection

http://www.carbonexpressarrows.com/cms/content/arrow-selection-guide
 
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since you're new to it, I would suggest an Easton aluminum/carbon composite. Full Metal Jacket or similar. You'll be shooting dirt, sticks, etc and the hybrids will hold up better. Carbon may crack and with your limited experience checking your arrows all the time is something you will forget on occasion. I have never had a problem with carbon but I shoot 99% targets. The all carbon have no real advantage over a hybrid either. Light isn't better when hunting.

Just another opinion.
 
Shot alluminums for years and loved um. Good penetration and much quieter than carbons. On the other hand, I've also shot carbons for years and the best I've had experience with are the Easton Axis. They hold up well. I've never had one crack or break, unless stuck in an elk. My2cents.
 
I love my carbon express arrows with the blazers. Once you get your arrow length taken car of shoot, shoot, shoot. Even at 20 yards on a daily basis you will get very comfortable shooting your bow, just don't shoot more than three at a time, easy way to rip up a few arrows.
 
I love my carbon express arrows with the blazers. Once you get your arrow length taken car of shoot, shoot, shoot. Even at 20 yards on a daily basis you will get very comfortable shooting your bow, just don't shoot more than three at a time, easy way to rip up a few arrows.

I'm guessing my groups wont be quite close enough right at first to worry about that. But thank you all for the info I think I might actually no what I'm looking for/at when I go to the store now.
 
Even with huge groups you will slam arrows into each other if your shooting at the same bull. if you have a target that has multiple bulls then shoot one arrow per bull, then pull them and start over.
 
I figure good spine in an arrow cuts the critters up more when they go running and kicking that arrow after the shot. Also, the survival rate of the arrow increases when tempted to shoot at one of those blasted prarie dogs.
 
I figure good spine in an arrow cuts the critters up more when they go running and kicking that arrow after the shot. Also, the survival rate of the arrow increases when tempted to shoot at one of those blasted prarie dogs.

Good to know because this time of year that is what will probably be 1st blood.
 
Here is my new bow.
P1020273.jpg
 
String silencer

I was looking at your picture of the bow and I couldn't help but notice your string silencer. That very much resembles a finger gaurd for shooting fingers. I have seen a lot of those on bows used for bowfishing for fast shooting. Is there any particular reason that they set your bow up to use it as a silencer.
 
I was looking at the picture too. I had the same thought on the string silencers. I also noticed your peep. I know lots of guys use those, but in a change in the weather, sometimes those peeps don't come around all the way. After my brother-in-law missed a 35 yard opportunity (didn't shoot) on a 380+ bull because his same type of peep didn't rotate due to the cold weather, we all switched to the ones with the rubber tube. You have to maintain and replace your tube every so often, but worth it in my opinion. My2cents anyway and I know others won't agree, but I was there and saw it happen; And talk about one pissed off hunter, because his local proshop set him up with that peep and told him it never fails.
 
NICE!! What you planning on hunting with it this year? I inherited a bow from my father that I'll be chasing mule deer in UT with this year. Don't really have my hopes up for a monster or even a buck for that matter, but it'll be fun to get it out again.
 
The "no glove" string tamers work, the guy who designed the bow, Kevin Strother put them there on purpose.
The blue peep is a G-5 meta peep. They only work with a good, no stretch string like a "Crackers" or a "Winners Choice". I've been using one for years with no problem.
What will i hunt ? Hopefully, I'll draw a New mexico bull tag, otherwise, maybe some Cali. D-7 blacktails. I have a hard enough time tagging one with a rifle
 
Peeps

I used to use a peep with the tubing. I had one of the largest mulie I have ever seen sneak up on me while I was eating lunch. I finally heard him and turned and he was at 12 yards. Some how I was able to get to my bow and start to get drawn. About the time I reached full draw the tubing came off the bow. The tubing snapped me it the face and the deer heard it. Needless to say he left the country in a big hurry. Since that day I have never used a peep with tubing.
 
I used to use a peep with the tubing. I had one of the largest mulie I have ever seen sneak up on me while I was eating lunch. I finally heard him and turned and he was at 12 yards. Some how I was able to get to my bow and start to get drawn. About the time I reached full draw the tubing came off the bow. The tubing snapped me it the face and the deer heard it. Needless to say he left the country in a big hurry. Since that day I have never used a peep with tubing.

That sucks... That is definitely the drawback to tubes. Now I shoot traditional. What a pleasure to shoot. No more gadgets......
 
FINALLY got all the parts and was able to bring it home this afternoon. Now I just need some cooperating weather.:)


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