Is this silly?

Think I started loading 38/357 initially many, many years ago to feed my college days handgun shooting habit. In fact the Speer #10 manual was my first. Initially it will seem that it is not cost effective, but in the long term it definitely is. The one thing that it does provide is the ability to shoot more and get comfortable. I reload a couple dozen cartridges now and don't let the availability of factory ammo dictate what my next rifle will be, hence the 338 Federal that will be accompanying me to Wyoming in a couple weeks. Couldn't find brass, no problem, resized 308 Win. Ditto the self-reliance aspect, I have plenty of ammo for all my firearms and the only factory stuff is rimfire, and if I am getting a bit short, head to the reloading bench.

Invest in a few reloading manuals and read them front to back to get your mind wrapped around the process. I have probably a dozen manuals at this time and am always thumbing through them for bits of information, can get immersed on those cold winter days. I'm kind of old school in that I prefer to have something in hand other than my phone for information, paper maps, compass, reloading manuals, service manuals, etc.

The accuracy thing is that you can tailor loads to your particular rifle with reloading.
 
Lots of knowledge in here, thank you all for contributing.

I think my biggest issue on why I want to get into it is ammo availability. I’d really like to get some abnormal cartridges like 280 AI but I just can’t find the ammo. Hell, 300 Weatherby in Wyoming is barrend. I had to go to 3 different shops in Cheyenne to get the last box in town, the. I bought a 200g box in Casper which I don’t even know that my gun likes. I get frustrated owning a gun I can’t shoot because no one stocks the good bullets I want.

So case in point, I have the brass which seems to be the hardest thing to find. Anything else I can get off the shelf and lid it myself. I’m sure I can get the same accuracy or better with that gun, just finding components is the concern….

Edit: I know I can buy ammo online, lots of 300 Weatherby available, but shipping fees are ridiculous. I’d only do it if I left ammo at home on a hunt.

That is as good of rational as any.
Better than most.
 
The best load data source I know of.

They compile the most different powder and bullet makers load data into one manual for ONE caliber. From there you can go back to the original source material.

You start seeing patterns and such and a light bulb will go off.

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If you want to come up to Worland, I’d give you a run down sometime and I even have a few older single stage presses I could set you up with.

I got started when I wanted to make my .223 into a deer rifle with 60gr Partitions. Used the Lee loader whack a mole kit. And it made some good ammo! I never did use that rifle for deer, but it has slowly spun out of control. I reload for about a dozen different cartridges and love it all. I don’t get too far down in the weeds for any of it, but I usually have a good supply of ammunition if I have the time to sit at the bench.
 
I started reloading because an E6 drug me home from the range at Ft. Wainwright when I was 10 " Begging the captains pardon" " this little shit can shoot" which lead to "what was he doing on your range". After some explanation he was my first coach, I was shooting competitively by 12 and needed to feed a Garand and an M1A by the time I was 14. Started in 1965. I have 24 or 25 sets of dies, two wildcat cartridges and an affinity for loading old timers like 257 Roberts and 275 Rigbys up to full potential, modern actions and very cautious.
If you only train on the bench at 100 yards and only shoot a box a year, you won't get much out of reloading. Most modern rifles will shoot at least one factory load pretty dang good at 100. Go to three hundred and beyond you will gain by Tailoring your loads.
 
Lack of factory ammo on the shelf is a huge driver.

Yes brass is the hardest thing to get right now. I have a few that you can't buy factory ammo for. And a few others that have very limited offerings of you can find them. I have no problem rolling out all I need on the bench.
 
If money is not a concern and you are loading hunting ammo here is my input. Understanding that you will get an overwhelming number of opinions that everyone is sure is the best.

There really isn’t a down side to reloading except for a little space a little $ and a little time to learn. But it can alleviate the frustration of finding ammo, paying loaded ammo prices and not shooting because of inability to resupply.

Books- I reference Barnes and Nosler regularly. I have Sierra, Lee, Hornady, and some of the cartridge specific ones. I reference quite a bit on line also. Personally, Nosler if you are loading accubonds would be my overall first purchase. Lots of good reading. I recommend it before even getting a class from a friend. The terminology is explained.

If you are jumping in with both feet:

Press- A turret press( redding t7 or Lyman 8) lets you set up your dies once and they are always set. You decide you want 50 280ai rounds- you turn to 280ai dies and start loading. It cuts down the hassle and a persons reluctance to go crank out a few.

Scale- I use both mechanical and electronic- people will pick nits over their favorites. Lots of internet band width spent arguing- pick the one you like, in my humble opinion.

Dies- for 280ai and 300w- pick which ever is available. I collet neck size (Lee)and bump the shoulder with a bump die(Redding) I acknowledge I am a monster.

Tools- i have found the Hornady headspace tool and oal tools to be helpful. I have them set up on a little better calipers. These have helped alleviate stress over getting cases just right.

Trimmers- I use the lee trimmers, I have have not gone down the rabbit hole to try to prove a different cutter has any impact- on hunting loads.

I had a “kit” traded to me from a buddy that had inherited his dads stuff. I don’t think I would buy a manufactures kit. But my opinion is somewhat.

Bench- https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...3IfQs6qBAxWqlWoFHRATAdwQwg8oAHoECAYQDA&adurl=
 
All the stuff I got last time when I finished setting up for metallic cartridge.

Are all these items part of a kit? Yop.

But they also would have eventually replaced everything in that kit because they offered better performance.

And in the end, cost me less than an actual kit.

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I started pretty young - I was maybe 7 or 8 when watching my Dad load 12 ga shells through the MEC loader and he let me churn through boxes for the trap range. Dad would setup the press and I'd work through as many shells as I could. I didn't get to load rifle ammo until I was older - I would guess around 12 or 13.

My .308 has never fired factory ammo - and I bought that gun when I was 12. I do like the "fly-tying" analogy - I enjoy taking game a little more with stuff I've loaded and worked out. I also think it is a little silly saying that, since the animal doesn't care.

I like reloading now for availability since I have a stock of bullets I like to use, lots of primers and powder. I was browsing through Bob Ward's earlier this week just to see what they had in stock - and I didn't see any .338 Win Mag factory boxes. There was a row and a half of 6.5 PRC/Creedmoor - but very little pickings on other calibers. I load now for about 15 guns, between my kids and other family members.

Plus, I get to geek out a little and devote analytical obsessions to something productive.
 
I simply burned out buying expensive 'high end' factory ammo and getting blossums at the range with it. Loading has removed a nabob of doubt while easing the pain of practice expense.
 
Based on what? I see this comment a lot too which entices me but the only data that can support this is better groups, right? It's not like you can add more powder (I think). I was always told factory ammo is as hot as the load can get. Maybe I'm assuming too much with my question too, but what difference would it make with me buying accubond bullets compared to factory noslers?
Highest velocity and most accurate load seldom coincide!

I have yet to be at a match, and see someone pull out a box of Remington Corelokts!

As mentioned, you can Taylor the ammo to YOUR gun.
MY gun is NOT, YOUR gun!
Just because it works well in mine, doesn't mean it will work well in yours.

While you have the expense of buying the press, reloading bench, scale, assorted tools if you look at it as an investment it's an easier pill to swallow.
You can start inexpensive, or sky is the limit.
Lee press and dies while inexpensive, are still decent quality.
I started with a Lee 4 hole turret press. As stated before, you set the dies in the turret & leave them.
Wanna change from loading 9mm to 300 Weatherby? Give a twist & lift the turret from the press, and drop in the next turret. Dies are already set. (As long as you aren't changing bullet type or weight)

I'm the only one I know of shooting 115gr Berger VLDs out of a 250 Savage.

Shoot a 257 Roberts AI? Forget about factory ammo!
(Yeah, I know! )

7mm Weatherby
50 Peterson Brass $113. Should last 5+ loadings, if not too hot.
So figure $2.20 per case, divided by 5.
Primer. 60 cents.
Powder. 1lb equals 7,000 grains. 66-74 grains depending upon powder. 1lb powder $38
Bullet. 150gr Berger Classic Hunter. $60 per 100. So 60 cents each.

That 1 box of Weatherby ammo was what $85-125?
 
I started reloading shotgun shells in about 1984, rifle and pistol a year or two later.

It was a total cost savings deal for me. My friends and I did a ton of shooting and no way we could have afforded it without reloading.

As time went on, started chasing the accuracy one could get by tinkering.

I'm more in the camp of @Bambistew. I just want to have rifles that shoot well to 4-5 hundred yards and have enough components so I don't have to rely on what a store decides to stock.

I like the consistency of handloading and also enjoy it. Can't know how many thousands of rounds I've loaded.
 
I loaded a ton as a kid, nothing super precise but good enough to hunt with. I haven’t loaded anything in a long time and would probably be more cautious about it now and worried about making things perfect
 
The old man bought a rifle and passed it onto me. Ammo is expensive for it and he started picking up the necessary items for reloading.
There was a lot of satisfaction in finding what worked and when I took my first critter with ammo I reloaded it was a pretty big high.
 
In addition, if money is not really an issue, a chronograph is very helpful in finding those nodes(controversial topic) and also calculating actual velocity. Even loads I have chronograph get faster in my memory than what they actually are.

It does deflate peoples built up assumptions.
 
Alright, so here's a question. If I wanted to dip my toes into this, how can I get started for cheap? Money isnt the issue, I just dont want to invest a lot and end up not liking it. I already have a pocket powder scale and a trinkler. Is there a 'list' of necessities that one would need?
 
Alright, so here's a question. If I wanted to dip my toes into this, how can I get started for cheap? Money isnt the issue, I just dont want to invest a lot and end up not liking it. I already have a pocket powder scale and a trinkler. Is there a 'list' of necessities that one would need?
Might be able to find a press and dies cheap in a yard sale or estate sale. At minimum, you'll need a powder thrower, single stage press, reloading block, shell holder, dies and components. I'd go with one of the kits from Hornady or RCBS. Right now, Hornady is doing a rebate with their equipment where you can get 500 free bullets.
 
When people ask me about reloading I have them buy a copy of the ABCs of reloading(I think the latest edition is by Phil Massaro). If people get through that whole book and it still is something they are interested, I dove in to help them get started.
 
Lack of factory ammo on the shelf is a huge driver.

Yes brass is the hardest thing to get right now. I have a few that you can't buy factory ammo for. And a few others that have very limited offerings of you can find them. I have no problem rolling out all I need on the bench.
I've been looking for 165 grain copper ammo for my .300 WSM for almost 2 years now. My rifle likes the 165 grain bullets for some unknown reason over the 180 grain that I would prefer. Local stores don't have any .300 WSM ammo on the shelf. Finally starting to see some availability online but not the 165 grain copper (either Barnes, Nosler or Federal).

That's the only reason I'm even considering it. I need to mess around with setting up for reloading like I need another hole in my head. The time and space to put everything just isn't there.
 
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