Help Me Tune My Broadhead to Hit With Field Points

[emrah1028]

No wobble. And maybe I wasn't clear earlier, but the BH's and FP's hit the same point of impact before I added the string stop. I'd hate to take it off, but I'm positive that's the problem. I have it set about 1/8th to 1/4 inch away from the string. Some say to install it with that gap, others say to preload the string. I've tried moving it around and the gap I have now seems to be the "least" detrimental. Like I said, I'd really hate to take it off because it made a very noticeable reduction in sound for me.

And I'm still trying to understand how moving the rest helps. Doesn't it move the poi for the field points as well?

Emrah

P.S. As you can tell, I have a lot to learn about bow tuning. Been trying to read a lot on Archery Talk but I'm still muddling through all the terminology.

 

[MN Public Hunter]

What does the Beman website say for arrow selection you are using? If I read it right, you should be using a spine of 400, not 340. It's not that 340 won't work, but I tend to go by the charts. That is why I mention the spine. Just trying to help a MN guy out.

http://media.midwayusa.com/midwayusa/staticpages/pdf/Chart_PDFs/Beman_Selection_Chart.pdf

 

[emrah1028]

Well, I guess you're right. Looking at the chart I think 400 is the correct spine. Guess I've been shooting the wrong stuff. Too bad, as I just bought a pack of 6 the other day. I'll try the arrow rest thing.

Emrah

 

[emrah1028]

On second thought.... I was incorrect in my understanding of spine ratings. I always thought the 400 was stiffer than a 340. The 340 is stiffer. So, going by this, I don't think I'm underspined.

Emrah

 

[MN Public Hunter]

On second thought.... I was incorrect in my understanding of spine ratings. I always thought the 400 was stiffer than a 340. The 340 is stiffer. So, going by this, I don't think I'm underspined.

Emrah

Ahh...good...then I did read/understand it wrong too...I'm no expert either.

 

[BTROCKS]

If anything you are overspined which is far better than being underspined. By moving your rest you should see your FP and BH's come together which is the object....once they both hit the same point of impact then you can adjust your sight accordingly. Move your rest in very small increments. I like to tune this way shooting at thirty or forty yards. Hope this helps, if you need some more help or have any other questions PM me for my number, glad to help out anyway I can.

 

[Wapiti Warrior]

I was struggling with this to, but what I ended up finding out is my hand position on my bow was slightly twisting the bow. My field tips would fly fine, but the BH would shoot different and kick a little. Once I paper shot and figured out my grip everything started to shoot the same.

John

 

[sbhooper]

The PSE Nova is a great bow. The bow is good and I believe that your arrows are good. You cannot beat the whisker bisket rest, either. Go to the Bowtech site (as well as others) and read the instructions for tuning a bow. They have a very good pictoral for tuning broadhead flight. That bow is not fast enough to be having problems with broadhead flight if it is tuned right.

The problem is that field tips are easy to get to fly straight because the fletching will correct them easily. It is not the case with broadheads. If your bow is not tuned correctly, the additional surface of the broadheads will make the arrow shift in flight and the fletching cannot correct it as well. If the arrow is leaving the bow perfectly in position, then it will fly straight for the broadheads or field points.

The reason that many people shoot mechanical broadheads is that they fly more like field points and your bow can shoot them without being in tune. This is not good, however, as the arrow is essentially hitting the target at a bit of an angle and taking away some of the efficiency of the broadhead. The faster the bow, the more difficult that it is to get the tuning right and so mechanicals look more inviting.

 

[idelkhntr]

I have tried several different broadheads and have found that with fixed blade broadheads anyway I have to retune my bow. I have not found a BH that shoots just like a FP. Some get close, but none right on. I practice with my FP from about April through July to work on muscle memory, etc. I then tune my BH and shoot them up until the season starts. I tried the tunable Innerlocs and they hit the same as when I shot NAP Nitrons. The broadheads shoot about six inches straight right of the FP. My suggestion would be to check your arrows to fix the spiraling and then just tune to adjust for the BH flight.

 

[emrah1028]

Well, I fiddled with it a little more and now I'm all upside down. My understanding is that you must "chase" the broadhead with the rest. If the BH hits left, you move the rest left.

Well, I tried that and.... my arrows went left?!?!? What's up with that? I moved it toward the right, and the BH's started moving right. Ok, now we're getting somewhere. I got them to hit point of aim. Well now, my FP's started moving away the same distance. ARRRGGHH!!!

In other words, the gap between the BH's and FP's really didn't close up. I'm watching my form and not torqueing. I even took off my 3" limbsaver stabilizer (made NO difference in vibes or sound, so why have it on?) I also took off the string stop I'd recently put on, as it made my groups erratic.

So, with a bare bow, my BH's are hitting point of aim and the FP's 6 inches (or more) right. I called my local archery shop and I'm going to go in Wed. morning and spend an hour with the owner. Paper tune, fling different arrows, different BH's, etc.

I'll get this thing (or me) shootin' straight yet.

Emrah

 

[smarandr]

When I started with archery a couple of years ago I couldn't get consistent results with broadheads and I was going crazy trying to get things tuned. Finally I took it down to the local shop and $15 later my broadheads were flying true--maybe the best 15 bucks I've ever spent. My biggest regret is that I didn't take it down there sooner and save all the aggravation and wasted practice time.

My field tips and broadheads still don't shoot exactly the same, but I've pretty much given up on shooting field tips anyway because at the end of the day my objective is to shoot an animal with a broadhead.

 

[utah400elk]

For what it's worth, Google "French Tuning" for your bow. . I am sure I will get more than a few remarks about what French Tuning means . Follow up with a walk back tune and you will be good to go.

French Tune:

A quick break down: Shoot three arrows at a vertical line (usually a string hung in front of the target) from three yards. Move your sights until the group of your three arrows split the string. Then move back to 7 yards and shot again. From the 7 yard line move your rest until your three arrows again split the string. Move back to the three yard line and start over. Before too long you will not have to mover either your sights or your rest. Once completed the windage of your bow should be “in tune”.

Walk Back Tuning:

Next move outside and start with a vertical line (usually a string again). Shoot three arrows at 20 yards. If you did everything right, then the three arrows should group around the string. Then move back to 40 yards (use your 20 yard pin) and shoot again. If your windage is tuned properly they three arrows should still be grouped around the string (they will be hitting low).

The "French Tuning is great because I can shoot inside my basement and take wind out of the equation. Hope that helps...

 

[Deleted member 20812]

I have tried several different broadheads and have found that with fixed blade broadheads anyway I have to retune my bow. I have not found a BH that shoots just like a FP. Some get close, but none right on. I practice with my FP from about April through July to work on muscle memory, etc. I then tune my BH and shoot them up until the season starts. I tried the tunable Innerlocs and they hit the same as when I shot NAP Nitrons. The broadheads shoot about six inches straight right of the FP. My suggestion would be to check your arrows to fix the spiraling and then just tune to adjust for the BH flight.

Sounds like a grip issue. I bet when you are at full draw, if someone were to look at your string in relation to your cams it is coming off at a slight angle to the left.

 

[174in]

Dont worry about only having a wopping 55lbs.I only shoot 53# and have killed a shit ton of deer. If your shot placment is good you will go through them like butter. Get the bow tuned good and you will be fine.I like mechanicals better myself.If you tourqe your bow they are more forgiving where a fixed blade will magnify that tourqe more.

 

[RUT JUNKEY]

it doesn't matter the weight you pull, like others have said, its shot placement for sure. I would guess that its your grip, but, your on the right track for sure. I applaud the effort in fixing it. . .some wouldn't bother. I shoot PSE myself and use the Thunderhead 100gr. . its a great combo for me. good luck and let us know what you find out.

 

[sbhooper]

The poundage is fine. Ted Neugent shoots 53 I think. I shoot about 53 right now since I hurt a shoulder. I killed several deer with no problem last year. I have shot several different kinds of broadheads and have settled on the four-blade Slick Tricks. I also have killed several deer with Magnus Stingers. I do not like mechanicals, as like anything else mechanical, they can fail. The only bad penetration that I have ever gotten was on a turkey shot squarely with a mechanical.