Ebonizing Walnut

I didn’t realize that Remington even made a non-checkered BDL stock. Learn something new every day.
I heard at one point that you could order them from the custom shop as components back in the early 10s.

I had thought it had checkering, but I bought it like a year or so ago so I didn’t remember. When I opened the box I was pleasantly surprised. It makes my job easier.
 
I heard at one point that you could order them from the custom shop as components back in the early 10s.

I had thought it had checkering, but I bought it like a year or so ago so I didn’t remember. When I opened the box I was pleasantly surprised. It makes my job easier.
I know a guy....
 

nhenry - I'm curious as to whether the grain will still be visible after the ebonizing treatment?​

I think it’s a solid maybe. I haven’t done much else to it, but it’s possible once the oil’s on it that grain will start popping. We’ll see. Right now you can see a little bit of the figure, not much
 
Don’t know the science behind it, but I put on another coat of the iron acetate and it turned the black stock a grey color.

IMG_9619.jpeg

So, I brewed up some x7 black tea and rubbed it on the entire stock. The black color came back. My bet is the solution was trying to react with tannins that were already coated, and thus just sitting on top. Lesson learned. Add more tannins before going again

IMG_9624.jpeg

Someone informed me about the abutments from the plastic forend tip into the wood, so looks like it’s getting ebony after all.

Thinking I might like a shorter forend than typical (think Peak44 Blacktooth esque). Now if only I knew someone with a bandsaw
 
Thinking I might like a shorter forend than typical (think Peak44 Blacktooth esque). Now if only I knew someone with a bandsaw

I would NOT recommend a bandsaw. A slow cut with table saw or compound miter saw will be much cleaner. Even so, I would put blue tap over the area to be cut.

If you happen to be headed through Iowa on I-35, I would be happy to cut it for you.
 
I would NOT recommend a bandsaw. A slow cut with table saw or compound miter saw will be much cleaner. Even so, I would put blue tap over the area to be cut.

If you happen to be headed through Iowa on I-35, I would be happy to cut it for you.
Noted, thanks!
 
may have missed it but being ur going to put ebony on the forearm tip, might as well do the pistol grip cap too; symmetry
 
Looks good even with the spacers. They’re still coming off though.

IMG_9625.jpeg
Side note:
I’m gonna use the K3 this season. After talking with my dad I remembered just how reliably it kept zero even after some pretty hard crashes on grandpa’s 30-06. We never get rain in Western KS during early december anyways.
 
I think a few coats of oil finish will really make it look sharp. Me being me, I'd probably already have a coat on there to protect it from stains and what not while it rattles around getting the nose job.
 
I think a few coats of oil finish will really make it look sharp. Me being me, I'd probably already have a coat on there to protect it from stains and what not while it rattles around getting the nose job.
I still have to sand it to the final grit, but after that I may just do that for that exact reason. It also needs a recoil pad. So lots can happen in between steps
 
I still have to sand it to the final grit, but after that I may just do that for that exact reason. It also needs a recoil pad. So lots can happen in between steps
What kind of pad? I did this one last weekend. One like it, in black leather, of course, would work.
 

Attachments

  • 20240421_200058.jpg
    20240421_200058.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 10
I still have to sand it to the final grit, but after that I may just do that for that exact reason. It also needs a recoil pad. So lots can happen in between steps

That one looks good. I’m going to do a red pachmayr or an orange kick-eez grind to fit


How about a red Microcell. Nice and light.

There are three thicknesses available. This is the medium one. It is what I use under the leather - though I buy the black ones.

You could find a ruby red patent leather... ;)

 
Don’t know the science behind it, but I put on another coat of the iron acetate and it turned the black stock a grey color.

View attachment 324028

So, I brewed up some x7 black tea and rubbed it on the entire stock. The black color came back. My bet is the solution was trying to react with tannins that were already coated, and thus just sitting on top. Lesson learned. Add more tannins before going again

View attachment 324027

Someone informed me about the abutments from the plastic forend tip into the wood, so looks like it’s getting ebony after all.

Thinking I might like a shorter forend than typical (think Peak44 Blacktooth esque). Now if only I knew someone with a bandsaw
You should be able to do it with a slider chop saw. Make a jig to mount the stock on and then clamp it to the fence on chop saw. The jig is simply a piece of 3/4" plywood cut true on a table saw. Then draw a line exactly down the center of the board end to end. Use long wood screws through the action screw holes to attach the stock to the board on the line drawn. Then put the board against the fence on slider saw, clamp in place with C-clamps at spot you want to cut. That should make a cut perpendicular to stock. I used the technique and radial arm saw to cut the fore end of the first stock I did for my 404 build. Just make sure to use a finishing blade and masking tape so the cut is clean.
20231019_114147.jpg
I used a similar idea jig for drilling the crossbolts for the second stock.
20240407_204719.jpg
 
Last edited:
Back
Top