Caping
- Thread starter Funter
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BuzzH
Well-known member
I cape all my own stuff, its pretty easy.
Lifesize capes, use a dorsal cut and cut up the inside of each leg to just above the knee.
For shoulder mounts its real easy, make cuts around the knees then up the back of the legs following the hair line up to about the lower 1/3rd of the body. Then make a 90 degree cut toward the center of the body. From there cut completely around the critter. Final step is to start from the horn bases and make a "Y" cut from the horn bases to the back of the head, then just follow the spine down to the cut around the body. Always cut toward flesh, never toward the skin. If you cant get to a taxidermist quickly, its also handy to be able to turn the ears, split the lips, work the nose, etc. Be careful not to miss the tear ducts or the eye-lids and leave plenty of lip on the cape as well. Cutting holes is not that big of deal, they're easy to fix, but its best to really take your time.
The best knife for the job is a smaller one with a good sharp tip. I like Chicago Cutlery paring knives. They sharpen easy, only cost a few bucks, and who cares if you lose one.
Also, even if you dont intend to mount the critter, a nice cape can fetch some $$$, taxidermists always need good capes. I usually sell several a year.
Lifesize capes, use a dorsal cut and cut up the inside of each leg to just above the knee.
For shoulder mounts its real easy, make cuts around the knees then up the back of the legs following the hair line up to about the lower 1/3rd of the body. Then make a 90 degree cut toward the center of the body. From there cut completely around the critter. Final step is to start from the horn bases and make a "Y" cut from the horn bases to the back of the head, then just follow the spine down to the cut around the body. Always cut toward flesh, never toward the skin. If you cant get to a taxidermist quickly, its also handy to be able to turn the ears, split the lips, work the nose, etc. Be careful not to miss the tear ducts or the eye-lids and leave plenty of lip on the cape as well. Cutting holes is not that big of deal, they're easy to fix, but its best to really take your time.
The best knife for the job is a smaller one with a good sharp tip. I like Chicago Cutlery paring knives. They sharpen easy, only cost a few bucks, and who cares if you lose one.
Also, even if you dont intend to mount the critter, a nice cape can fetch some $$$, taxidermists always need good capes. I usually sell several a year.
The advice Buzz gives is a good way to work. I always cape up to the back of the skull, then pull the lips out and cut inside the mouth, all the way around, and the same with the eye sockets. Pull away from the skull and cut as far back to the inside as you can get. The last thing I usually cut away is the nose. Cut the cartiledge that is behind the nose so you don't damage the surface tissue.
I used to salt the cape and roll it up and stick it in a meat sack. My taxidermist told me the next time I do this, he's going to stick me in a meat sack. He said it's best to lay a piece of cheese cloth or muslin on the meat side of the cape, fold it into a manageable size then roll it up and stuff it in a sack. Salting the cape sucks out the moisture, and can make the cape stiff and impossible to work with. When Elk hunting it's best to just leave it out and let it freeze just like the meat.
I used to salt the cape and roll it up and stick it in a meat sack. My taxidermist told me the next time I do this, he's going to stick me in a meat sack. He said it's best to lay a piece of cheese cloth or muslin on the meat side of the cape, fold it into a manageable size then roll it up and stuff it in a sack. Salting the cape sucks out the moisture, and can make the cape stiff and impossible to work with. When Elk hunting it's best to just leave it out and let it freeze just like the meat.
BuzzH
Well-known member
Its OK to salt a cape if you've fleshed it correctly, turned the ears, split the lips, etc. otherwise danrs advice is pretty good.
The only exception I'd take with that is if the weather is just flat hot and you have no other choice...salting heavily...even a poorly caped animal will save it. If you go that route, try to get as much flesh off as possible and make sure to salt every square inch of the cape, paying particular attention to the edges around the eyes, lips, etc. You cant use TOO much salt.
While it is a pain in the ass to rehydrate a poorly fleshed and salted cape, it isnt like they cant be worked...I've done it.
The only exception I'd take with that is if the weather is just flat hot and you have no other choice...salting heavily...even a poorly caped animal will save it. If you go that route, try to get as much flesh off as possible and make sure to salt every square inch of the cape, paying particular attention to the edges around the eyes, lips, etc. You cant use TOO much salt.
While it is a pain in the ass to rehydrate a poorly fleshed and salted cape, it isnt like they cant be worked...I've done it.
