Adding weight upfront.

[LNGBOWFLYER]

Gentleman perhaps you can help me out. I have a spine issue. I have short arms and so I shoot 27" arrows. Because of this even with 125 grain heads my spine is too stiff with the Easton Axis 340s I shoot. I have two options I can take. I can buy a new dozen except with a 400 spine. Or I can add some weight up front. My bow limbs are maxed out so I can't increase my poundage. Adding some weight is much cheaper than new arrows.

So my bow is well tuned and shooting darts but..... My broadheads hit about 1-2" to the left of my field tips. To correct this I would like to add 10-20 grains to the front to weaken my spine. So how do I do that? I see Gold Tip makes 10 and 20 grain inserts. Would they scew on the front of my Easton axis arrows? If not what are some other options I can do to add weight forward?

 

[174in]

Take some weight off the back lighter vanes or better yet feathers.Can you find brass inserts for the arrow? Once your arrows are cut its pretty limited.You would be best off just going to the 400 spine.

 

[fiveptbill]

If you are getting consistent groups with broadheads but they aren't hitting where your field points are, don't change anything anything except your sight. The spine doesn't change with broadheads. You may be getting a little planing but as long as your broadheads are grouping just shoot it.

 

[Hooligan]

I had almost the same problem shooting the 340's out of my Hoyt. Paper tuned at 15 feet sighted in perfect 20-60 yds with field points but when I switched to broadheads I consistently shot to the left.

I put on broadheads, shot out at 50 yds, and fine tuned my REST until they were hitting were I wanted.
Then went back and reset my sight to my field points. Viola, My broadheads and field points both hit in the same spots. The problem isnt so much your spine, but the fine tuning of equipment I bet.

 

[LNGBOWFLYER]

Thanks for the advice. Yes my groups both field point and broadheads group awesome. It's just they are consistantly 1.5-2" left of the field tips. At 40yds its about 3" left. I guess I'll just move the site like you said. And eventually down the road get 400s.

 

[d-bone20917]

Try 150 grain points and broadheads and see how they shoot. 3 Rivers Archery sells weighted washers that are 5 grains each so you can play around and see what shoots the best. But I shoot a recurve so it takes a lot more tweaking to get the arrow properly matched to the bow.

 

[StrutNut]

I have a very similar set up and it seems like more of a tuning issue then spine. I think a 400 would make things worse for you, not better. Try moving your rest to match the tips and broadheads. It also may be a hand torquing issue that the broadheads are bringing out that field points are not. Either way I dont think it is an arrow/head issue. Either form or bow needs to be broadhead tuned.

 

[SDHNTR]

Hold on here...

Are you shooting at 70lbs? If so you are not overspined at 27" with a 125gr pt. Even so, I have never seen a bow that wouldn't tune with a slightly stiff shaft. You are much better being on the stiff side than on the light side.

Start with rest tuning. Move the rest a teeeeenny bit to the right. Broadheads catch more air and will move more than field points. Once they catch up and group the same, THEN move the sight to brig both groups back to the bullseye.

If that doesn't work and doesn't bring groups closer together, you have other issues. It could be cam lean, or most commonly, hand torque in the grip. I know of many experienced guys who have sworn their bow wont tune and everything is wrong with their bow setup, when all it takes is just a minor tweak in grip position to bring the groups together.

Provided you are maxed out at 70 lbs, your arrows are not the problem. Don't waste your money.

 

[Deleted member 20812]

Agree with SD. I was having absolute FITS trying to tune my bow a couple of years ago. It ended up being a slight amount of hand torque that happens when I have my wrist too high. If I let my grip settle in to a nice low grip my BH and FP are spot on.

What kind of rest? Has anyone else shot your bow to see if they can tune it?

 

[Brandenbowhunter]

Put arrow wraps on the front...15-20 grains!

 

[LNGBOWFLYER]

I thought my bow was at 70lbs (limbs torqued all the way down) however this is not the case. My draw weight is actually at 67lbs. I appreciate all of the help guys. I'm gonna have to buy new stuff anyways. It's kind of embarrasing but..... Here it goes.

I started shooting archery in 2006. Bought a used bow set at 28". Felt good and I never thought anything of it. So when I bought a new one (my current bow) in 2009 I got it set at 28". Well I was practising and the pro shop owner said my draw length was too long. He measured me up and I am actually a 26.5" draw length. So looks like I'll have to buy new cams, strings, cables and arrows. A 26" arrow is most definately a 400 spine. Also torn on whether I should continue to shoot 125 grain broadheads or drop to 100s.

 

[174in]

400 should be right for that setup.

 

[SDHNTR]

But .340's and a 125 head should still tune just fine.

If your bow limbs are bottomed out and you are only geting 67lbs, your bow is out of spec. Head back to the shop. They will need to twist up the cables to get your poundage back. Don't even bother trying to tune a bow without first putting it back to factory specs.

 

[174in]

But .340's and a 125 head should still tune just fine.

If your bow limbs are bottomed out and you are only geting 67lbs, your bow is out of spec. Head back to the shop. They will need to twist up the cables to get your poundage back. Don't even bother trying to tune a bow without first putting it back to factory specs.

I was thinking the bow was out of spec myself when he said it would only pull 67# but I think he said its an alpha max and I belive it has adjustable cams.If he is not at the top of the draw lenght on the cams it probably wont pull the peak weight.

 

[LNGBOWFLYER]

Yeah I have #3 cams (28-30") and I need to get a set of #2 cams. I have decided that #1 I have perfectly good arrows that are cut to 27". So even though my correct draw length is 26.5", I tested out 27" today with a friends bow and it felt perfect. So I'll change my DL to 27" and just keep my current arrows. Now I just gotta finds a set of #2 cams for my bow. Oh and new strings and cables which I was gonna do anyways.

 

[Deleted member 20812]

Look on Archery Talk Classifieds for the cams.

Your difference in POI may very well have been your draw length being too long and you torquing your bow (or release) ever so slightly.

I bought strings/cables from Korbin's Custom Bowstrings. Very good guy to do business with, and half the price of Winner's Choice.

Your 340 arrows should tune fine with a 125 grain head.

 

[LNGBOWFLYER]

Thanks for the advice everyone. JLS ill check out those strings and cables you mentioned. I always like to give my money to the small businesses when I can. Will let you know how it goes.