Getting Started

Picked up my bench yesterday and had to switch my RCBS order over to Amazon to get it here by Christmas and for the rebate program. Just need to source the components. Where normally has the best deals on bullets and powder? Midway?
 
Or Midsouth. I usually buy powder local during load development, then I stock up on my way through Missoula.
 
Picked up my bench yesterday and had to switch my RCBS order over to Amazon to get it here by Christmas and for the rebate program. Just need to source the components. Where normally has the best deals on bullets and powder? Midway?

For nosler bullets, the seconds from shooters pro shop are hard to beat...I usually buy 500-1k at a time when they have what I need. Bullets don't go bad.
 
BuzzH, have you had any issues the blemish Accubonds? I see they say they are cosmetic and won’t effect performance. Thier price point is pretty hard to pass up especially with the military discount.
 
BuzzH, have you had any issues the blemish Accubonds? I see they say they are cosmetic and won’t effect performance. Thier price point is pretty hard to pass up especially with the military discount.

I know your question was directed to Buzz but I've been shooting Nosler seconds exclusively in 5 or 6 different rifles. Never had an issue except regret that I didn't stock up on more 7mm Accubonds. Most recent ShootersProShop purchase was 182 grain 30cal Etips...picked them up for about $0.25 each which is 1/3 the retail price.
 
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BuzzH, have you had any issues the blemish Accubonds? I see they say they are cosmetic and won’t effect performance. Thier price point is pretty hard to pass up especially with the military discount.

Not at all...in fact, I cant even find a blemish on any of them. Sometimes, they also have good deals on the over-runs, that I don't believe are seconds.

Been shooting them for a long time in .22, .243, .25, .284, .30, and .338 without a single problem...probably the last 15 years or so?

At the price point, I don't mind shooting steel with them, using them for load development...really like practicing and hunting with the same bullet.

I've also never read anything about anyone having any kind of trouble with them.
 
Powder is best bought locally unless you are buying in large quantities due to the hazmat fee.

Most all my larger centerfire bullets are bought through SPS.
 
My next question: If you're reloading brass for a specific rifle that was already shot in that specific rifle, is it still necessary to use a resizing die and case trimmer?

I'm guessing it probably is, primarily for the sake of consistency. ???
 
My next question: If you're reloading brass for a specific rifle that was already shot in that specific rifle, is it still necessary to use a resizing die and case trimmer?

I'm guessing it probably is, primarily for the sake of consistency. ???

You have to resize, but if already fired and dedicated to the same rifle then you can “neck resize” vs full resize, assuming you have the die that for.
 
My next question: If you're reloading brass for a specific rifle that was already shot in that specific rifle, is it still necessary to use a resizing die and case trimmer?

I'm guessing it probably is, primarily for the sake of consistency. ???

You don’t have to trim every time, but check the cases after every time through the sizing did. If they are over or at max length, trim them all at the same time.

I full length size mine at every loading.
 
As the guys have said already, yes you have to resize your brass after every firing. The neck must be squeezed back down to a diameter that will hold your bullet firmly.
You may want to use a collet die set that only neck sizes or adjust your full length resizing die to size the brass as little as necessary. Or full length resize to factory specs.
Trimming isn't usually needed until brass has been sized and or fired three or four times. But, that depends on the load you use and the amount you resized the brass, working it to flow brass toward the neck area more or less.
If you have the Lee type trimmer then running them through the trimmer each or every other loading isn't a big deal. It will only trim the ones that need it and won't alter the ones that are good to go. That's what I do.
The case mouths should be chamfered each and every loading and be sure to clean those primer pockets every time you load too. A cruded up primer pocket won't allow proper seating of the new primer and cause mis-fires or feeding trouble.
If you use a trimmer that has an adjustable cutter depth then be careful and measure properly before and after trimming. Especially when setting it up to trim.
Brass that's way too short is better than too long but, not good either way.
 
You have to resize, but if already fired and dedicated to the same rifle then you can “neck resize” vs full resize, assuming you have the die that for.
Neck sizing or partial full length sizing can be done with a regular die if it's set properly. A sharpie is a good thing to have at the loading bench.
 
A sharpie?

How do you use that to properly set the die?

It is used to help visualize where the die is working the brass as you set the die depth via trial and error. It a replacement for "smoking".

You certainly can use full-sized dies to do neck sizing or "shoulder bump" sizing, but there are mixed reviews on various forums as to this vs. dedicated collet neck sizing die. Some reasons that some prefer dedicated die:

- You eventually need to full size so, if you also neck size with the full size die you will be dialing the die back and forth which can be a hassle, buying a separate neck die can save time and fidgeting.

- Some say neck sizing only with a full size die can bulge the shoulder a little in a manner that is otherwise controlled in a dedicated die - I am new to this and have no idea if this is a real thing a function of OCD

- Some say neck sizing with a full size die is "less precise" in diameter of opening than a dedicated die - again, I am new and don't know how big a deal this is.
 
For a lot of years I FL sized everything. But I noticed my belted cartridge's had case head's coming apart much faster that rimless case's. Then I heard about the sloppy chamber's in belted case's, they headspace on the belt rather than the shoulder. So I started neck sizing and the problem went away. Only draw back was after a few loading they wouldn't chamber any more. So partial FL sizing came into it. Got to at that point where everything got partial sizing. I could keep doing that except I was having to trim every other loading. Problem with FL partial sizing it when you pull the sized case back over neck expander in the die, the case stretch's a lot and require's trimming. Did that for a lot of years and then finally tried a collet die, only neck sizes and no neck expander in it. In time all my dies will have an extra collet die in them. With the dies without a collet die right now, I partial size, some call it bumping the neck I think. But if I can feel the neck rub chambering a just sized case, I turn the die down a bit more. It is important that my ammo chamber's easily and that the case properly fits the chamber. There are min and max chamber's. One of the biggest thing's I discovered over the years is that I can make my case's actually fit the chamber of any rifle I might load for.

Start out FL sizing and you'll see these thing's first hand as you go along! Someone ask' why you do this or that, you won't have to say some guy told me it was the right way. Rather you can tell him what you've learned yourself by doing it. baby step's are a good way to learn!
 
Putting spent brass in the dishwasher sounds like not a good idea to me ,but it may work to clean some carbon off the brass. I doubt it does much though.
A small bucket that has a tight fitting lid and filled with some aluminum oxide grit , could be rolled around or placed in a cradle attached to a moter. Similar to a rock polishing set up.
But really ,some steel wool of a 0000gr will do a great job for small batches.
Brass would need to get pretty dirty to absolutely need to be cleaned in a tumbler or vibration cleaner.
Shiny brass does look nice though and I think it makes inspection for cracks and other problems easier to spot quick.
A small brush like a brass bristle cleaning tip for rifles can be used to scrub the interior and steel wool with the brass exterior.
But larger amounts of brass to clean would take awhile to do by hand.
 
I'm not sure you would want to run brass through the dish washer for the very slim chance of lead contamination the next time you washed dishes. Why risk your health and marriage.

Amazon has the Frankford Arsenal vibration tumbler with media, polish, and separator for $68...use the Amazon.com Sponsor Link and buy that setup and your brass will be clean with very little effort. You can get the stand alone tumbler for about $35 and buy a lifetime supply of treated tumbling media for $10 more.

To get the brass much cleaner, buy the wet tumbler (the mechanized version of what Millsworks is describing) and you'll get brass that is cleaner than new. If you're picking up brass from an outdoor range then I strongly recommend using the wet tumbler to get any possible contaminants out.
 
Not at all...in fact, I cant even find a blemish on any of them. Sometimes, they also have good deals on the over-runs, that I don't believe are seconds.

Been shooting them for a long time in .22, .243, .25, .284, .30, and .338 without a single problem...probably the last 15 years or so?

At the price point, I don't mind shooting steel with them, using them for load development...really like practicing and hunting with the same bullet.

I've also never read anything about anyone having any kind of trouble with them.


I just wanted to thank BuzzH for this info. I ordered the 140g Accubonds today and they worked out to .29 per bullet for 500. That is right around a .25 savings over MidwayUSA or my local Cabela's. I also ordered RL16 and CCI primers, I am hoping to make a good cocktail out that for my 6.5 Man bun.

Quick math gets me to about .80 per round for a total of the 500ish rounds. (Figured at 43 grains, not having a working recipe and not including the cases I already have)
 
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