Ollin Magnetic Digiscoping System

Barrel Cleaning procedures

88man

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 31, 2011
Messages
2,333
Location
Pa
Whats every one using and doing. Shooters choice? Kroils? Foam? Ammonia?
 
Hoppe’s No 9 and BoreTech Eliminator. Hoppe’s get out carbon fouling well enough and Boretech is the best ammonia free copper solvent that I’ve found. Ammonia is hard on barrels and nostrils. It will etch a bore and cause it copper foul more quickly. It was the standby for years because it’s so effective, but if you leave it in a barrel too long it can make things turn south.


Wet patch with Hoppe’s No 9 and let it sit a few minutes
dry patch,
fair bit of brushing with Boretech Eliminator,
patch until dry.
Wet patch with Hoppe’s No 9 again and let it sit while I do something else for a few minutes.
Another wet patch with Hoppe’s No 9
If it’s stainless or I’m about to shoot, then I patch until dry, if it’s not stainless and I’m putting away, then I leave some Hoppe’s No9 in the barrel to prevent corrosion.

I only do this after 100-300 shots. I’ve produced my smallest groups on a clean bore after 1-3 doublers depending on the barrel, however the POI tends to start floating around as the barrel fouls and will then settle in. Accuracy tends to remain quite well for quite some time after it settles in if I have a decent barrel. It’s much better for long shot strings to get it settled in and leave the barrel dirty. It’s also better for hunting because it eliminates those first few shots on a fresh clean bore. For my hunting guns, I’ll guve a good scrub as described, shoot 10-15 shots, check sight-in, and for the rest of the season I’ll just run a dry patch to insure that there’s no debris in the bore. If the barrel isn’t stainless I’ll run a dry patch before I go out in the morning, and if I don’t encounter moisture I’ll levae it alone, but if I do get damp, I’ll run a wet patch.
 
Last edited:
Boretech products for me as well. Try the boretech carbon cleaner also. It’s some good stuff.
Always Use a bore guide and nylon brush for all cleaning. More harm is done to rifles from over cleaning and improper cleaning. Your barrel will tell you when it needs to be cleaned when accuracy starts to suffer which normally is hundreds of rounds in standard non overbore calibers.
 
I still use bronze brushes. They’re far softer barrel steel and I like them better. Grit will embed in bronze or nylon, so it’s good to consider brushes fairly disposable. Definitely use a bore guide that fits the rod well. Don’t use a patch so tight the rod bends because that will cause it to contact the bore. I originally used polished steel rods based on the theory that coated rods would pick up grit that steel would not. After ruining a barrel with a bent cleaning rod I switched to coated and have started checking my rods for straightness. Ideally with a bore guide and proper technique your rod won’t contact the bore. Most benchresters wear their barrels as much by cleaning as by shooting, but that’s the price they are willing to pay for the tiniest possible groups. For just about any other purpose, cleaning should be kept to a far more reasonable level. 50-300 shots depending on the cartridge, the barrel, and where in that barrel’s life it is. There are a million cleaning regimens out there that all work. Just get most of the copper and carbon out every now and then. Leaving a little behind can speed the settling in process. I like a consistent feel from end to end. If I feel tight spots, I’ll keep brushing, or possibly whip out the iosso paste. If it feels consistent from end to end when I patch, I may only brush a few strokes. There’s no point in over cleaning for 99% of purposes.

I have a few hunting guns that I don’t have bore guides for. I don’t clean them or shoot them all that much though. I’m sure they’ll last my lifetime.
 
Used to go with Hoppes and a brush. I have switched to WipeOut used per mfg instructions. A little fidgety but after you get used to it, way better - a lot easier on the barrel - cleans much cleaner than I could before.
 
I’ve considered WipeOut and need to try it. A guy that used to win every F-Class match I shot in used WipeOut primarily. It obviously treated him well. I haven’t shot a match in five years and he has switched to PRS type competitions.
 
I use a bronze brush to clean carbon buildup in the neck or throat but sparingly. I don’t use bronze brushes as they will give a false reading when using a copper cleaner. Definitely use a coated 1pc rod also.
 
I've used a bronze rod, brush, and jag since I've owned firearms. I need to get on board with a bore guide though. Additionally, my new 26" barrel I'll need to figure out a longer cleaning rod... mine only makes it to the end of a 24".

I don't think I've ever actually used a copper solvent on a gun before. Goes to show how much I've shot over my lifetime. Just Hoppe's #9 because it brings back fond memories.
 
What methods do folks use to clean their rifle chambers and does it matter if you do it before or after you clean the barrel?
 
Chamber before barrel, then barrel. all jags push thru with bore guide then wipe rod each push then swab chamber when done
 
ImBillT - have you also been a benchrest shooter? If so, interested in mentoring a 6mmBR newbie?

I grew up shooting regular Varmint rifles at a benchrest club because it was the only decent range around and a neighbor was a founding member. We learned a lot from them about how to build good ammo, the advantages of custom chamber reamers and matched dies, and a little about tuning ammo to your gun. started shooting competitively in Hunter Class Benchrest, did well locally, but never traveled. When HBR died around here I put a 6BR barrel on my HBR gun and was going to start shouting Varmint class benchrest and Varmint for score, but the neighbor got my dad and I into F-Class before I ever shot a match with it. It’ll shoot though. I know what the winners were doing five years ago. Things change with wind, and benchrest shooters border on superstitious. A 6BR is pretty forgiving. What you do with it depends on whether you’re focusing on 0-300yds or 300-1000 yards.

There’s at least one benchrest hall of famer at that range a few days a week.
 
Last edited:
No offense but I've been using toothpaste for about 40 years. Naturally, I have Hoppe's no.9 and coat all my tools with Breakfree Collector (Nothing Better); lasts, and lasts, and lasts with no detrimental effects on the finish.

* For my 'stainless', I use Noxon metal polish: "cleans and protects".
 
Last edited:
What methods do folks use to clean their rifle chambers and does it matter if you do it before or after you clean the barrel?

A .410 or 20 gauge cotton shotgun bore mop works good for cleaning the chamber and bolt raceways. When they get dirty wet them with warm water, work in a few drops of dish detergent, rinse well and air dry.
 
I primarily use Amsoil mp for my cleaning chores. I do not over-clean a barrel! Barrel makers love people that worry about cleaning their barrels completely and getting rid of all of the copper. Just use a nylon brush and a reasonable cleaner. Copper is not a worry, unless your groups start to open up. You do not need to strip it out on a regular basis. The bullets essentially ride on a bit of copper, which in effect, protects the bore. Just run a couple wet patches (with whatever lube, or cleaner you want), follow up with a couple passes with a brush, and then a few dry patches. Keep it simple.

Always make sure to fire fouling shots, before final sight-in.
 
While using a bore scope around a few groups of shooters over the years. Where basically they cleaned their rifles with their "x" brand and procedure. We then scoped them. I have found that guys using Butches or Montana extreme for cleaning the barrel were able to get their barrels clean the first or second time. Guys using Hoppe's or others still had fouling after several attempts. I don't want to clean all day, so Butches for me, for a good fast cleaning.
 
Back
Top