Leupold BX-4 Rangefinding Binoculars

.30-06 Bullet/Load Selection Process

cahunter805 said:
That’s a great place to start.
What kind of rifle is it and what kind of accuracy are you after?
Click to expand...

Savage 114 Classic. This is from when I first bought it and before I changed out the recoil pad.
20160319_152228.jpg

I'm looking for MOA accuracy, so my requirements aren't very stringent. My shots w/ the factory 180 grains weren't even close. One of the boxes was WAY off.
 
SPDSpappy said:
Savage 114 Classic. This is from when I first bought it and before I changed out the recoil pad.
View attachment 92515

I'm looking for MOA accuracy, so my requirements aren't very stringent. My shots w/ the factory 180 grains weren't even close. One of the boxes was WAY off.
Click to expand...

Nice rifle. I have always liked those. I shoot Hornady 150 Interlocks in my old Savage 06. It shoots them into 1/2 moa, at 3000fps. I like IMR 4451 at near max and I am playing with some H4350, now, as 4451 is hard to get. I already had the 4350 and now, you can get it easily, as everyone is buying the new powders.

I have never used it on elk, as I have 7 mags for that job, but it really smucks deer with that bullet.
 
I'd LOVE to have sub-MOA as that's what I bought it for...

I bought the 06 since you can change out the bullets and kill just about anything in North America with it. I haven't been into hunting that long (my son got me into it when he was 6 and he's 13 now), so I needed one gun to do multiple jobs. I'd rather spend my money on tags/hunts than multiple guns. ;)
 
SPDSpappy said:
I'd LOVE to have sub-MOA as that's what I bought it for...

I bought the 06 since you can change out the bullets and kill just about anything in North America with it. I haven't been into hunting that long (my son got me into it when he was 6 and he's 13 now), so I needed one gun to do multiple jobs. I'd rather spend my money on tags/hunts than multiple guns. ;)
Click to expand...

Agreed. If you primarily hunt deer, the 150s/165s are great. If you want to go after elk, I would stay with a 180. They will all work, but extra bullet weight is never a bad thing, on a thick critter.
 
Good to know, thanks! I did a search for Scott Saterlee on YouTube, but none of the videos are that short (all around 10 minutes). Any chance you can provide the name of the video or link?
Click to expand...

the 2 minute video is for using excel to make a graph. (its actually 2:36)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3PwVWX28dEE

here is the video on the Scott Saterlee method. its from an episode of the "6.5 Guys". There are starting to be more videos out there on this method, but this is the guy who invented it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACyfeeBHVOA

it does require you to have a chronograph, but if you are getting this far into reloading, then you should already have one.

above all else though, KEEP GOOD RECORDS! you will thank yourself later (maybe years and years later). i record velocities for different primers, different case brands, crimped vs non-crimped, everything. i prefer the Redding load sheets and i also use the little Redding labels to put into my boxes of ammo after they are loaded. its easier and cheaper then buying the sticker ones. when you do your different charge weights, take a sharpie and write on the case what they are. it comes off easily with some 0000 steel wool and will help you verify you are shooting the correct charge weight for what you are recording.

if you have more questions on this method, just ask. I have been doing this for a while now and feel i have a pretty good handle on it.





maybe i should do a post on the Saterlee method. i have been getting a lot of questions about it and it isn't too widely know yet. :confused:
 
sbhooper said:
Agreed. If you primarily hunt deer, the 150s/165s are great. If you want to go after elk, I would stay with a 180. They will all work, but extra bullet weight is never a bad thing, on a thick critter.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, I live in the communist state of IL, so no rifles during deer hunting for me, only shotguns.... I'll probably use the 150's on antelope (recommended?).
 
Bluejeep said:
the 2 minute video is for using excel to make a graph. (its actually 2:36)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3PwVWX28dEE

here is the video on the Scott Saterlee method. its from an episode of the "6.5 Guys". There are starting to be more videos out there on this method, but this is the guy who invented it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACyfeeBHVOA

it does require you to have a chronograph, but if you are getting this far into reloading, then you should already have one.

above all else though, KEEP GOOD RECORDS! you will thank yourself later (maybe years and years later). i record velocities for different primers, different case brands, crimped vs non-crimped, everything. i prefer the Redding load sheets and i also use the little Redding labels to put into my boxes of ammo after they are loaded. its easier and cheaper then buying the sticker ones. when you do your different charge weights, take a sharpie and write on the case what they are. it comes off easily with some 0000 steel wool and will help you verify you are shooting the correct charge weight for what you are recording.

if you have more questions on this method, just ask. I have been doing this for a while now and feel i have a pretty good handle on it.





maybe i should do a post on the Saterlee method. i have been getting a lot of questions about it and it isn't too widely know yet. :confused:
Click to expand...

Fantastic, thank you! Yes, we have a chronograph (it's my son's, so I say we... ;) ). I found the data sheets when I was looking for the advanced reloading sheet you took a picture of, thanks!
 
SPDSpappy said:
Unfortunately, I live in the communist state of IL, so no rifles during deer hunting for me, only shotguns.... I'll probably use the 150's on antelope (recommended?).
Click to expand...

150s are great for lopes. Honestly, they're great for deer and elk also. I use the 165s, for a little more energy and it's the only round I'll need unless I pull a moose tag. I like target shooting out to 800 yes, but keep my hunting shots under 300. 150s, 165s have plenty of power at that range. I do my load development at 300 yds on a 24x24 target. When I find a powder/ bullet combo that gives me sub MOA 5 shot groups at that yardage, I'll run with it, and tinker with seating depth to fine tune it. I dont even chrono them till I get to that point, but I have a magneetospeed, and it throws off the POI. By then I know the round is accurate, and I just like to see a low es/sd, and know my velocity so I can get a CDS dial made for the round.
 
Bigjay73 said:
150s are great for lopes. Honestly, they're great for deer and elk also. I use the 165s, for a little more energy and it's the only round I'll need unless I pull a moose tag. I like target shooting out to 800 yes, but keep my hunting shots under 300. 150s, 165s have plenty of power at that range. I do my load development at 300 yds on a 24x24 target. When I find a powder/ bullet combo that gives me sub MOA 5 shot groups at that yardage, I'll run with it, and tinker with seating depth to fine tune it. I dont even chrono them till I get to that point, but I have a magneetospeed, and it throws off the POI. By then I know the round is accurate, and I just like to see a low es/sd, and know my velocity so I can get a CDS dial made for the round.
Click to expand...

I wish I had a range out that far!! Our range has 200 yards and to get out any further than that, it's a 90+ minute drive. :(

I'm going to have a CDS built for mine too!
 
Great advice here. It's hard to beat a quality 165/168 gr bullet & one of the 4350 type powders with the 30-06 cartridge.

I used the 165 Nosler Ballistic Tip and H4350 to take: antelope, mule deer, black bear & elk.

Bumped up to the 200 gr Nosler Partition for grizzly.

Could have done it all with a good 180 gr bullet too.

Likely the best advice I can give on hunting handloads, is that they have to be as close to 100% reliable as possible. They must fit easily in the magazine. Slide through the action and into the chamber very slick. Fire every time. Eject every time (even if you're ejecting loaded rounds).

After reliability, of course excellent accuracy and good velocity are important.

I switch to hunting style practice a month or so before the hunting season, and burn through a fair bit of 30-06 or 25-06 ammo then, shooting from prone, sitting, kneeling, and standing at all sorts of distances from very close to 300+ yards. I'll admit that I do it because I enjoy shooting the hunting rifles, but I'm sure that the practice has helped me take a lot of shots.

Best of luck to you!

Guy
 
Guy said:
Great advice here. It's hard to beat a quality 165/168 gr bullet & one of the 4350 type powders with the 30-06 cartridge.

I used the 165 Nosler Ballistic Tip and H4350 to take: antelope, mule deer, black bear & elk.

Bumped up to the 200 gr Nosler Partition for grizzly.

Could have done it all with a good 180 gr bullet too.

Likely the best advice I can give on hunting handloads, is that they have to be as close to 100% reliable as possible. They must fit easily in the magazine. Slide through the action and into the chamber very slick. Fire every time. Eject every time (even if you're ejecting loaded rounds).

After reliability, of course excellent accuracy and good velocity are important.

I switch to hunting style practice a month or so before the hunting season, and burn through a fair bit of 30-06 or 25-06 ammo then, shooting from prone, sitting, kneeling, and standing at all sorts of distances from very close to 300+ yards. I'll admit that I do it because I enjoy shooting the hunting rifles, but I'm sure that the practice has helped me take a lot of shots.

Best of luck to you!

Guy
Click to expand...

Great advice, thank you! After being on my first western hunt, I can absolutely see the value from practicing from all the positions you mentioned.
 
I think using fire formed brass probably results in more accuracy, but normally not enough to worry about losing hunting accuracy at realistic ranges.
 
I only use brass fired in my rifle, and bump the shoulders .002. For hunting loads and accuracy, FL sizing is fine. Take a few factory rounds and check concentricity and OAL to the ogives, pull apart the rounds and weigh charge, and bullets. You'll be shocked how off each one will be from one another, yet you can still get sub moa out of a lot of new factory stuff. Point is, you can keep it pretty simple for hunting rounds.
 
I bought 100 pieces of new brass when I bought my 7-08. I devolved a load for it with the new brass and am hunting with it. Why would I waste components just to make it once shot brass?

Don't over think this.
 
I like new brass, but the first firing is just trigger time for me, then its formed to my rifle. I dont agree that buying factory, and reusing the brass is a waste of components. Time on the range is never a waste, its experience.
 
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