.30-06 Bullet/Load Selection Process

SPDSpappy · Jan 4, 2019

I went to CO for 1st rifle with 180 grain factory ammo because I didn’t have time to build the rounds myself. However, after shooting these and reading on this site and others about what other people are using, I’m changing to 150 grain hand loads. Here’s what I’m using for my Savage Classic 14:
View attachment 92406

I have WIN760 and Varget powder w/ Winchester primers.

I’ve read through a bunch of the other threads and this one is really the closest to what I’m asking, but not quite (https://onyourownadventures.com/hunttalk/showthread.php?280235-Load-Testing-Bullet-Questions/).

I want to build an accurate elk/muley hunting load by next season. Do you recommend building a ladder in every bullet to see what my gun likes, or start w/ the lowest load in the book, see which one gets the closest groups, then focus on that bullet specifically? I’d rather not waste bullets/powder/time when it doesn’t make sense. I don’t mind spending the money if it makes sense as I know the bullets are about the cheapest thing for these hunts.

Thank you!

belly-deep · Jan 4, 2019

Unless you’re going to be shooting at extreme distances, ladder tests aren’t worth the effort IMO.

I usually start at the book starting load with the bullet seated at the lands and work up with a chronograph until I hit velocity. Then I start messing with seating depth.

OhHeyThereBen · Jan 4, 2019

You don't need to start with the lowest load in the book. You'll find several nodes throughout the entire powder range in the book, so pick a velocity that you'd like to be close to (most hunters want it towards the top end) and start on the lower end of that more specific range. You should have a pretty good idea within 20-25 shots of what works.

May I ask, why were you so unsatisfied with the 180gr loads? I personally shoot 178gr ELD-X with H4350 in my '06 and it's pretty solid. That's the best part of reloading though; you can pick nearly any bullet you want in a caliber and make it work in your gun.

1_pointer · Jan 4, 2019

I do it pretty much the same as above. One good thing about starting at the longest length is that you only have one way to go if you experiment with seating depth.

6mm Remington · Jan 4, 2019

In my own 30-06 I really like the 165 gr. bullet weight as it seems to be a sweet spot for the 30-06. You get good velocity with good energy. I use 165 gr. Nosler Accubonds or Partitions on everything from antelope to elk and they have performed very well. IMR4350 and H4350 are two excellent powders to work with. Something in the 56-58 gr. range with those two powders also seems to work for a lot of folks. My own personal load is IMR4350 - 57.4 grs. with both the Partition and the Accubond shoots very well.

David

Cav1 · Jan 4, 2019

Wife and I both always use 180-grain on elk. We started pretty much in the middle for our loads then tweaked from the most accurate groups. She wound up with the Hornady over IMR 4064 and I with the Sierra over H4831SC, which has become my "go-to" .30-'06 powder. I reloaded for many years before I got serious about experimenting with seating depth and was truly amazed at what a difference it can make in accuracy.

Sandpounder · Jan 4, 2019

Super timely thread and information. I was planning on doing almost exactly what the original post said, but I think I now can cut out some of the experimenting. I am brand spanking new to reloading, but I am going to straight steal the loads listed for the first try I think. Maybe I will start a little lower and work up to the them if that makes sense. I guess to try and answer one question, I have always thought 150 was a little light for elk, but that was really just hand me down information. My 30-06 also has really performed well with the Nosler 165 grain factory stuff, hopefully reloading will save some money in the long run.

Bigjay73 · Jan 4, 2019

Sandpounder said:
Super timely thread and information. I was planning on doing almost exactly what the original post said, but I think I now can cut out some of the experimenting. I am brand spanking new to reloading, but I am going to straight steal the loads listed for the first try I think. Maybe I will start a little lower and work up to the them if that makes sense. I guess to try and answer one question, I have always thought 150 was a little light for elk, but that was really just hand me down information. My 30-06 also has really performed well with the Nosler 165 grain factory stuff, hopefully reloading will save some money in the long run.

I wouldn't steal the loads listed in this thread. Use the powder and bullet combos recommended by the posters, then reload some of your own starting with the manufacturer's recommended minimum load and working up. Someone listed a 165gr accubond with 57.4 grs of IMR4350. I use the same combo, but have high pressure signs at 56 grs. Every rifle is different.

Sandpounder · Jan 4, 2019

Thanks for that info. that sounds like a good plan. I have a "consultant" coming up in a couple weeks to get me straightened out, but I have a better starting point now. Thanks guys.

cahunter805 · Jan 4, 2019

I agree with what’s been said above. Get yourself some 4350 and load up either the 165-180gr lead or 168TTSX.

OhHeyThereBen · Jan 4, 2019

Yeah don't steal loads. Buy a book for the bullets you'd like to shoot (Nosler has their data for free on their website, which is nice) and start a certain percentage (I believe 10% is recommended?) below the maximum.

haiku_rodney · Jan 4, 2019

I load 59 gr H4350 in my '06 with a Sierra 165 gr HPBT. Groups are about 1" at 100 yds which are acceptable for me as a hunting load. I used to use the soft point but the tips get buggered up. I have used the load on Axis Deer, goats, pigs and young feral cattle with great results.

Cav1 · Jan 4, 2019

I still consider the 150-grain .30-caliber light for elk and prefer the 180-grain. The heavier bullet retains velocity and energy a whole lot better, especially at longer ranges. Just roughly comparing my old GameKing recipes (150-grain @ 2,800 fps muzzle velocity and 180-grain @ 2,700), you get much beyond 200 yards and the 180 is giving you an extra 400 ft.-lbs. or more of energy, and just past 250 yards the 180 starts to pass in velocity.

N2TRKYS · Jan 4, 2019

Step 1) look at Nosler load data for 165 grain bullets
Step 2) load up to their most accurate load test with H4350 or IMR4350 using Accubonds/Partitions
Step 3) verify accuracy
Step 4) go kill stuff

JohnCushman · Jan 4, 2019

Out of my Howa 1500 30-06 I use 165 grain accubonds (blems from SPS) and 47 grains of varget. I get around .5 MOA with it. I find the 165's out of my 30-06 to be a good compromise and my rifle really likes them.

ntodwild · Jan 4, 2019

I own a Remingto model 700

I use to have a friend load for me (Literally tried just about everything in my :06) but after doing chrono tests and accuracy out to 300yrds I can't find anything better than Hornaday SST Superformance loads. The 150grn is an awesome deer round and the 165 does exactly what it needs to do on elk and other thick skinned critters. I know Im gonna get some razing about this but I figure I can't just be some guy on an island here. I can't argue with my Remington, she knows best. Not worth the time and energy to load my own when I can walk into a store and purchase a premium load that does the job as good if not better than anything I (my buddy) can load. Trust me I get the addiction and tinker factor of loading your own. It's a fun hobby for sure and for large volume shooters its a big money saver. Im not knocking it at all.

belly-deep · Jan 4, 2019

ntodwild said:
I own a Remingto model 700

I use to have a friend load for me (Literally tried just about everything in my :06) but after doing chrono tests and accuracy out to 300yrds I can't find anything better than Hornaday SST Superformance loads. The 150grn is an awesome deer round and the 165 does exactly what it needs to do on elk and other thick skinned critters. I know Im gonna get some razing about this but I figure I can't just be some guy on an island here. I can't argue with my Remington, she knows best. Not worth the time and energy to load my own when I can walk into a store and purchase a premium load that does the job as good if not better than anything I (my buddy) can load. Trust me I get the addiction and tinker factor of loading your own. It's a fun hobby for sure and for large volume shooters its a big money saver. Im not knocking it at all.

As a handloader, I'm finding that I shoot more and more factory loads each year. They're really good quality, and its one less thing I have to worry about prepping each year.

Bluejeep · Jan 4, 2019

I prefer using the "Scott Saterly" method for working up my loads. Basically you are firing 1 shot at a set charge weight, increasing by .2 grains usually with each round. You then record your velocities and look for flat spots where an increase in powder does little in the way of increasing velocity. This is a node. Usually if you load in the middle of it, you will have decent accuracy. Then just play with your OAL and you should be all set.

I have included a few photos for you to reference.

This is the fastest and most efficient way to develop a load that I have found.

mtmuley · Jan 4, 2019

belly-deep said:
As a handloader, I'm finding that I shoot more and more factory loads each year. They're really good quality, and its one less thing I have to worry about prepping each year.

Really? I haven't purchased factory hunting ammunition in a long time. I do enjoy making my own, and having the flexibility to load any bullet I want in any given cartridge. Some ammunition just isn't available as a factory option. I know factory is of great quality these days, but I wouldn't trust it to be as consistent as a handload. Especially in ammo purchased from different lot numbers, or even different years. mtmuley

belly-deep · Jan 4, 2019

mtmuley said:
Really? I haven't purchased factory hunting ammunition in a long time. I do enjoy making my own, and having the flexibility to load any bullet I want in any given cartridge. Some ammunition just isn't available as a factory option. I know factory is of great quality these days, but I wouldn't trust it to be as consistent as a handload. Especially in ammo purchased from different lot numbers, or even different years. mtmuley

Well, that's cuz you're shootin' RUM's.....

Seriously though, I've been shooting Nosler and Federal loads and have had good luck as of late. Massammo.com had Federal 7mm-08 w/ 140gr Barnes TSX for ridiculously low prices a couple years ago. I bought a box, tried it (and it shot great), then ordered 2 cases of it. The stuff shoots less than 1" 3-shot groups and clocks @2900 fps in my Kimber Montana.

Then I needed some brass for my 325 WSM. It was during the shortage, and none could be found anywhere. I could have necked up 300 WSM but I found some Nosler blem load with 200gr Accubonds for about $20/box so I bought 8 boxes or so, mostly to get the brass. But it shot well and clocked at 2875, so good luck again.

Finally, I found a killer deal on Federal 200 grain Trophy Bonded tip 300 WSM on the internet. Bought one box, shot it (and it shot good), so I ordered 10 boxes. Haven't loaded for the 300 yet, but when the ammo is gone I will.

I still reload too, but the latest forays into factory ammo have me wondering if its really worth the time and effort...

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

.30-06 Bullet/Load Selection Process

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