Bore Sight Kits
- Thread starter fmnjr
- Start date
Laelkhunter
Well-known member
Not sure what you mean by "kits". You can bore sight a rifle (bolt action), by removing the bolt, and placing the rifle on sandbags or other support to keep it steady. Look down the bore and find an object in the bore about 50 yards away. Without moving the rifle, look through the scope and see how close the crosshairs are to the object you see in the bore. Just align the crosshairs so they are on the object while you can still see it through the bore. This is rough sighting only, and you still need to shoot the rifle to confirm the zero. Sight in to be about 1 inch low at 25, and that should put you on paper (target) at 100 yards. Fine tune at that point.
You can purchase bore collimators that use a stud that fits in the barrel, and you attach a "sighting tool" to it that has a grid pattern. You look through the scope, and adjust the crosshairs to be in the center of the grid. This too will only put you "on paper", and you still need to shoot the rifle to fine-tune the zero.
You can purchase bore collimators that use a stud that fits in the barrel, and you attach a "sighting tool" to it that has a grid pattern. You look through the scope, and adjust the crosshairs to be in the center of the grid. This too will only put you "on paper", and you still need to shoot the rifle to fine-tune the zero.
JohnCushman
Well-known member
This is the one I use. 1 tool that does .22 to 50 caliber.
https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/las...rchTerm=Laserlyte Universal Laser Boresighter
https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/las...rchTerm=Laserlyte Universal Laser Boresighter
I have one of these. I can set up in my basement and be on paper pretty fast. mtmuley
haiku_rodney
New member
I do it the old way. Set up a target about 30 yds out. Pull out the bolt, look through the bore, align the crosshairs then fire a shot and go from there. Cost: $0.00.
VikingsGuy
Well-known member
I bought a nice Wheeler laser bore sight, but it never gets used any more - I have found a rough alignment at 25yds through action (like Laelkhunter explained), one 25 yd shot to confirm I got it generally right, make what ever adjustments necessary then fine tune at 100 yds is just as fast and reliable with less messing around with the gadget (and I like my gadgets). In fact, now that I think about it, my Wheeler is for sale if anyone is interested.
I have a couple things. One is a Leupold magnetic tool. It attaches to the end of the barrel using a magnetic base. Mine is the old one that has no reference for the height of the scope over the bore. However, I estimate the height and have OK results with it. I have used it when switching scopes (taking off a sighted in one and replacing it) and they are always very close if not perfectly on.
I also have a Site Lite laser tool. You use o-rings and adapters to get the right size for your bore. At a specific distance (supposed to be measured) they have a reflective target. You adjust your reticle until its on the laser dot. If the gun has been sighted in, you check it to see where the reticle is in relation to the laser. On a far away hunt, you can quickly check things to be sure that the zero is still intact. I, however, don't like to change the adapters and some of the o-rings are positively a pain to try to remove for different calibers. You're also supposed to use vaseline on the o-rings when putting into your barrel. I NEVER do that!
Ultimately, you don't need one. For decades, when sighting in a gun, simply use a target on a big piece of cardboard and start at 20 or 25 yards. Once you get that close, then go out to 100 yards. Just my $.02!
I also have a Site Lite laser tool. You use o-rings and adapters to get the right size for your bore. At a specific distance (supposed to be measured) they have a reflective target. You adjust your reticle until its on the laser dot. If the gun has been sighted in, you check it to see where the reticle is in relation to the laser. On a far away hunt, you can quickly check things to be sure that the zero is still intact. I, however, don't like to change the adapters and some of the o-rings are positively a pain to try to remove for different calibers. You're also supposed to use vaseline on the o-rings when putting into your barrel. I NEVER do that!
Ultimately, you don't need one. For decades, when sighting in a gun, simply use a target on a big piece of cardboard and start at 20 or 25 yards. Once you get that close, then go out to 100 yards. Just my $.02!
Sometimes one just doesn't see the obvious...wow, looking down the barrel with the bolt removed...like I said, way behind the curve here. I've got old-crappy-bifocal-eyes so I'll likely also use both methods to sight weapons. Once I get the boy trained up, I'll use him 
Thanks for the help everyone, I appreciate the input.
Thanks for the help everyone, I appreciate the input.
SFC B
Well-known member
.....except for the $2 per round while dialing in Every year when I go to the range to confirm zero before I leave for the season the range safeties always give me a ration of crap because I set up at 100m, shoot 3 rounds and leave. I put rounds through the rifle during the summer but at $2.50 a round and an old, bad shoulder there is no reason to push it.
Every year when I go to the range to confirm zero before I leave for the season the range safeties always give me a ration of crap because I set up at 100m, shoot 3 rounds and leave. I put rounds through the rifle during the summer but at $2.50 a round and an old, bad shoulder there is no reason to push it.
Laelkhunter
Well-known member
In my younger days, with my 20/20 vision, I would put a de-primed case in the chamber, then bore-sight. The smaller view (only looking through the flash hole) was more precise. Can't do it that way now, I too wear the bi-focals.
The one I have I keep in truck to check if I think I banged it hunting.Never a problem or reason to shoot where I am hunting. Little lazer in a -06 case,has several to chose from.Cabellas Leupold model,cheap.
I will be going to the range soon to put 3 @ the 100 & then 3 @ 200 & check zero......which has not changed in 3 yrs. Unless it is like it is now ,clean from winter,then the 1st one or 2 are a bit off. These I put in a corner of the 100 target. Then it is back to dead nuts on.
I use up the ones left over from last year. The 3 I didn't fire last year & the ones I carry as spares. I might shoot ten rounds max.
My peepers are not so good on close up stuff these days so I ditto LAelks opine. The readers are on off,on off...lol
I will be going to the range soon to put 3 @ the 100 & then 3 @ 200 & check zero......which has not changed in 3 yrs. Unless it is like it is now ,clean from winter,then the 1st one or 2 are a bit off. These I put in a corner of the 100 target. Then it is back to dead nuts on.
I use up the ones left over from last year. The 3 I didn't fire last year & the ones I carry as spares. I might shoot ten rounds max.
My peepers are not so good on close up stuff these days so I ditto LAelks opine. The readers are on off,on off...lol
So I decided to get this job: https://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/sightmark-magnetic-universal-boresighter?a=483871
Pretty simple....
Pretty simple....
Ok....with the help offered here I was able to get on paper at 100 yards, after two trips to the range. Didn't have the bore-sight but did pull the bolt and used a lead sled to assist on the second try. Dang scope was really far off, so much for a factory setup I guess. Also found out I've got a lot of work to do yet at the range, not as good a shot as I thought I was.
