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Holding to compensate distance or adjusting MOA?

rbaca10

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Aug 10, 2016
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Texas
I am wondering what most are using for their zero distance for deer/antelope? I've grown up zero'd in at 200 yds and holding for longer distances, say 400 yds. I've been thinking about changing my approach to adjusting MOA on the scope based on target distance, that way I'm holding dead on at 400 yds instead of assuming I am holding 20" high.

I don't have a CDS dial but rather the typical MOA adjustment. What works for you?
 
200 zero , Anything over 300 I will always dial for. it’s nice to have a mil or moa reticle along with knowing field verified drop points. Personally we shoot mil dot scopes and practice out to 500 minimum with reticle only. Never had to use it on game , but I’d rather know how and not need to than need to and not know how. Especially if a animal ever got wounded.
 
Zero at 200. within about an inch from 0 to 300, so I just hold there. anything further I will use MOA.
 
I make my own CDS dials. They work great.

I take a sticker label used for garage sale price tags. I peel it off and stick it on the turret. I dial for 100, write a "1". Dial for 200 and write a "2". You see how this goes.

Then, when I'm done, I tape over it with some packing tape to keep it somewhat weather proof. Then I set my Customized CDS (CCDS) to a good MPBR for the cartridge. I like 250-275. That lets me point and click out to about 300 yards for most big game.

Hope this helps someone.
 
I don't have turrets and use known drop of my loads/bullets out to 500 yards. I zero my rifles for 2 1/2 - 2 3/4" high at 100 yards. Puts me a couple inches low at 300, 12 inches low at 400, and 24 inches low at 500 yards. One of my rifles does have a 4.5-14x40mm Leupold with the Boone & Crockett reticle with the hash marks in the crosshairs to use for various distances. It seems to work very well and is fast and simple. You don't have to worry with either system of possibly forgetting to dial back down once a shot is taken, or the animal suddenly is closer or farther away requiring more turret changes.
 
Scope at 200 yards. Center of mass up to 300 yards. Use currents beyond that distance. Have laminated sheet in pocket and on rifle for wind drift, angle, elevation, humidity and temperature.
 
Before CDS, I was 3" high at 100 on all my rifles. This put me holding dead on at animals to 350, and at 400 just holding over their back.
 
Here in the east, I zero for 100 and don't hunt anywhere that would require adjustment.

When I hunt out west, I switch to a 200 zero and use my "redneck BDC reticle". I don't own any scopes that I really trust to return to zero after an adjustment (my Leupold vx 3 will certainly do it sometimes, but I've seen it fail, too). So, after zeroing to 200, I shoot a group into a large piece of cardboard at 300 (aiming for an orange sticker at the top of the sheet) and then put an orange sticker in the middle of the group. I can then adjust the magnification on the scope to see what power puts the point of the lower fat section of the crosshairs right on the lower orange sticker (while keeping the crosshairs on the upper sticker). So, if I want to shoot out near 300, I just make sure my scope is set for that power and use the lower point. It works and I suppose I could do the same for 400, but at this point, I'm not really comfortable shooting that far at an animal.
 
I do both, depending on the circumstances. But my sights are irons and they are 1/2 minute adjustable. I've shot eland holding a foot low at 60 yds because circumstances dictated and I have sat down and dialed for a 260 yd shot on a pronghorn. Just depends on how the situation breaks. I carry my rifle with a setting that is most likely given conditions and know my hold over/under to use as needed. Some rifles I get to carry with two zeros set simultaneously, irons for longer ranges and barrel sights for something up close and personal.
 
Most of my rifles are sighted in at 300 as most of shots are in the 275-350 range so that allows me to use the crosshairs and shoot. Not much fluctuation from 275-350 with a 300 yard zero. Then again it depends on specific cartridge and loads as well. My method would be a poor idea at best with some old slow cartridges. I also have three where I dial in MOA using adjustable turrets.
 
Appreciate the info! Time to get out to the range and try some of these options and see what works best for me.
 
I use a ballistic reticle. Thats graduated to 600 or 800 yards depending on the model. I believe and its just my opinion, that a reticle is quicker and more reliable than turrets in general.
 
i use a 300 yard zero, hold for drop at 400 or 500, it gets shaky after 450 though, i have a bunch of scopes that i dial also to all ranges, a few have repeat ability issues, i always dial past my yardage 8 or 10 clicks and then dial back to the exact distance, seems to make the scopes much more repeatable as far as shooting groups at long range
 
I just hold high. Don't usually shoot over 400 and with my 300 mag and my loads and sighting I'm only 11" low at 400 so I can give the top of the back hold
 

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