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What's the deal with CDS?

So much great info here!

I was originally hesitant about CDS because I had no idea what it was. After reading the thread I have a better understanding of how it functions and why people use it. That being said, many of my thoughts and concerns were echoed above :

-That potentially there is more room for error (missing a shot trying to dial in, misusing the system, or even the chance the scope fails).

-I like the idea of simplicity and using the method spelled out by Randy11, RobG and BuzzH.

-As a brand new hunter, I hope to be within range that a CDS system might not be as useful, like 375H&H, Nameless Range, Buzz and others discussed.

Thanks for all the honest input! When the day comes I do buy a scope with CDS, I'll know where to go with my questions. :p

PaulRevere
 
I've enjoyed reading this thread as I'm torn between Mil-dots and CDS for a new scope on my .243. I use it for everything from prairie dogs to coyotes to deer. Thinking some 85 grain barnes copper bullets with the CDS might be the ticket; the 100 grain partition groups seem to open up on me downrange.
 
Keep in mind a scope with CDS doesn't need to be used as such. It's there is you want it but you don't have to turn any dial to take a shot if you don't want to.
 
Keep in mind a scope with CDS doesn't need to be used as such. It's there is you want it but you don't have to turn any dial to take a shot if you don't want to.

Exactly. I only use the CDS feature when ranges stretch. I know the MPBR and ballistics of all my CDS equipped rifles. Plus, it's a real learning experience to twist one up and shoot longer ranges. mtmuley
 
Also a great learning experience when one moves without you knowing it, or forgetting to return to zero...
 
Keep in mind a scope with CDS doesn't need to be used as such. It's there is you want it but you don't have to turn any dial to take a shot if you don't want to.

What are rough prices for a CDS and the equivalent non-CDS Leupold scope?
 
Also a great learning experience when one moves without you knowing it, or forgetting to return to zero...

Shooters and not shooters I guess. Dialing isn't for everybody, but if you get comfortable, it's fine. And most new dials have a zero lock feature, and a turret lock. mtmuley
 
This being a thread about the CDS, my post was specific to it. The CDS scopes I used to have came with neither of those. The MOA dials I got from Leupold did have a ball bearing to hit the post and serve as a zero stop though. But they turn easier than I'd like while riding next to a pack.
 
This being a thread about the CDS, my post was specific to it. The CDS scopes I used to have came with neither of those. The MOA dials I got from Leupold did have a ball bearing to hit the post and serve as a zero stop though. But they turn easier than I'd like while riding next to a pack.

The new Leupolds have both. Guess I should have stated that. Mine don't, and I have no issues. As said, dialing isn't for everyone. It's funny to me hunters strive for flat shooting cartridges, bullets with the highest BC and Hubble scopes, but a dial is a liability to some. To each his own. All my big game rifles can spin. mtmuley
 
I really like CDS and have set up all my rifle this way now. I find the system very effective. It's important to note that all ranges I shoot at game have been verified on paper. If you do your part, the CDS works.
 
What are rough prices for a CDS and the equivalent non-CDS Leupold scope?

You can get a vx3i with CDS for around $400. Same scope without CDS is around $80 less. You can always get a leupold without CDS, and send it to the factory later if you decide that you want it.
 
I've enjoyed reading this thread as I'm torn between Mil-dots and CDS for a new scope on my .243. I use it for everything from prairie dogs to coyotes to deer. Thinking some 85 grain barnes copper bullets with the CDS might be the ticket; the 100 grain partition groups seem to open up on me downrange.

Whatever you do don’t mix the mil dot with an MOA dial. In my opinion a scope with a dial should have a reticle with matching subtensions. None of my scopes have only a dial or only a mil/moa based reticle. They all have both. I know that’s that for everyone but in my opinion there are advantages to that setup than disadvantages.
 
Whatever you do don’t mix the mil dot with an MOA dial. In my opinion a scope with a dial should have a reticle with matching subtensions. None of my scopes have only a dial or only a mil/moa based reticle. They all have both. I know that’s that for everyone but in my opinion there are advantages to that setup than disadvantages.

This kinda went over my head, I think. I'd love a PM or post for everyone in my boat so they could understand better what you are getting at.
 
This kinda went over my head, I think. I'd love a PM or post for everyone in my boat so they could understand better what you are getting at.

I think I get it, but really dont understand why they would make a scope thats dials were in a different measure than the reticle subtensions. So I am also curious if anyone has a good reason for it. Wouldnt that just force you to think in both MOA and MIL? Whats the potential upside? As per the OP, even if you dont plan to use the cds system at first and stick with mpbr and getting as close as possible (which I agree 100% is the best method), for the 39 extra bucks it would cost to have it on a vx3 I would do it and learn to use it at the range. Will only add enjoyment over the long haul and with turret lock and zero stop there really is no downside. Ill be purchasing one from Schmalts here shortly myself.
 
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