Ollin Magnetic Digiscoping System

Load Testing/Bullet Questions

OhHeyThereBen

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Location
West Central WI
Just wondering the process that you all use to develop a load (specifically a bullet) for your rifles. Do you guys really go out and buy boxes of 50 bullets in each weight that you think could work for your caliber and shoot a few through in order to find which weight/bullet type works? I know that this could easily be mitigated if I had a couple of reloading buddies to split bullet boxes with, but it seems like there would be somebody on the great interweb that would be selling a "variety pack" of different bullet types for different calibers. Or maybe it somehow takes 50 bullets to see if a certain bullet works in your gun (doubtful)?

I realize that reloading doesn't necessarily save money, which I'm fine with. I also realize that there is more to working up a load than just the bullet. But it seems that this would be by far the most expensive part of load development, with a chance of ending up with a bunch of spare bullets that shoot like crap in my gun.

Thoughts? Solutions?
 
There are a few sources for sample bullets online. In my opinion they do not give you enough bullets to actually find a load for that specific bullet.

In most cases, shooters are looking to match a load to the bullet they have chosen. That bullet typically has a specific purpose and the shooter chooses a weight based on their goal for that specific rifle/application. I wouldn't randomly go buy a bunch of bullets without having a specific purpose in mind...in my case target shooting gets a bullet with a high BC with little regard to construction while for hunting I tend to prefer bullet construction over BC (ie something like a partition). Some bullets have both good construction and good BC like the Accubond.

There are a handful of favorites used by shooters and sticking to the known helps reduce the cost a little. Universally, I suggest the Accubond as a starting point for a hunting bullet
 
Thanks man. So just focus on the function of your bullet on impact and pick one in order to work up the correct powder charge/cartridge length to make it shoot well in my gun? Does a change in bullets really effect accuracy all that much when comparing at short (100 yard) distances?
 
You put the rest of the box on a shelf, arranged by caliber (of course), and one of your buddies, or your kids, or your buddies' kids, or your kid's buddies will maybe want to try the same bullet in his/her gun one day and now you have some to try and saved them the problem of buying 50...

Disclaimer: Not my room, but a very good buddy's...and where I do most of my reloading.

100_2733.jpg
 
You put the rest of the box on a shelf, arranged by caliber (of course), and one of your buddies, or your kids, or your buddies' kids, or your kid's buddies will maybe want to try the same bullet in his/her gun one day and now you have some to try and saved them the problem of buying 50...

Disclaimer: Not my room, but a very good buddy's...and where I do most of my reloading.


That's a better bullet selection than my local sport shop!
 
What Festus said.

We've done bullet swaps on here in the past. If you have some specific pills you're looking at, post them up and you may be surprised what you get as a response.
 
It seems like someone could start a decent business by shipping out "load development" bullet sets. Like 10 each of 5 different high quality hunting bullets. If anyone takes this idea and runs with it, I just require one set for a 30-06 as payment for the billion dollar idea ;)
 
Thanks man. So just focus on the function of your bullet on impact and pick one in order to work up the correct powder charge/cartridge length to make it shoot well in my gun? Does a change in bullets really effect accuracy all that much when comparing at short (100 yard) distances?

Yeah I'd focus on function especially when bullet velocities are high. Personally bullets designed for targets like Berger VLDs or Sierra MatchKings have no place in hunting (others will disagree) when bullets like Partitions, Barnes TTSX, Interbonds, etc exist. If you're worried about price see if someone has a few bullets they'd be willing to sell/trade/give, buy factory seconds from Shooters Pro Shop, or shoot standard cup-and-core bullets like Core-lokts or Interlocks.

There is a company called BulletProof Samples that sells 12 bullet packs...as I said before to find the best load combination 12 isn't going to be enough but if you want to just see if you rifle will even cooperate with that bullet it may not be a bad deal.

For 30-06, I'd start here...http://www.shootersproshop.com/nosler-products/nosler-blemished-2nds/nosler-blemished-bullets/shopby/f/caliber/30/isAjax/1.html Consider a 165-180 grain bullet (150-168 for non-lead bullet). Shooters Pro Shop just had most of these bullets on sale for $14-20 per 50 bullet package.
 
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I've had rifles where 50-100 bullets were barely enough to find the right load. my 35 Whelen is being incredibly finnicky with the 225 grain Barnes. I think I'm on my 3rd box.
 
Yeah I'd focus on function especially when bullet velocities are high. Personally bullets designed for targets like Berger VLDs or Sierra MatchKings have no place in hunting (others will disagree) when bullets like Partitions, Barnes TTSX, Interbonds, etc exist. If you're worried about price see if someone has a few bullets they'd be willing to sell/trade/give, buy factory seconds from Shooters Pro Shop, or shoot standard cup-and-core bullets like Core-lokts or Interlocks.

There is a company called BulletProof Samples that sells 12 bullet packs...as I said before to find the best load combination 12 isn't going to be enough but if you want to just see if you rifle will even cooperate with that bullet it may not be a bad deal.

For 30-06, I'd start here...http://www.shootersproshop.com/nosler-products/nosler-blemished-2nds/nosler-blemished-bullets/shopby/f/caliber/30/isAjax/1.html Consider a 165-180 grain bullet (150-168 for non-lead bullet). Shooters Pro Shop just had most of these bullets on sale for $14-20 per 50 bullet package.

I'm not all that worried about the cost or anything, just wondering what you all do for a process. That's a good deal though. I've seen you post about shooters pro shop before so I'll definitely check it out.

Thanks for all the information you guys. Hopefully I'll get to the point soon where I'm able to give advise instead of asking.
 
I've had rifles where 50-100 bullets were barely enough to find the right load. my 35 Whelen is being incredibly finnicky with the 225 grain Barnes. I think I'm on my 3rd box.

I was about 75 bullets into developing loads for my 6.5Hipster. I settled on 0.329 MOA but I know it'll do better so I'll start over this spring.


That's a good deal though. I've seen you post about shooters pro shop before so I'll definitely check it out
Sign up for their newsletter. I snagged some 182 grain Etips for around 28 cents each back in November.
 
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I was about 75 bullets into developing loads for my 6.5Hipster. I settled on 0.329 MOA but I know it'll do better so I'll start over this spring.

I'm not nearly that retentive. If I get 1 inch or better, I call it good and load up a 100 or so.

That's the nice thing about reloading - so much variety in application & never reaching the end of learning!
 
I've had rifles where 50-100 bullets were barely enough to find the right load. my 35 Whelen is being incredibly finnicky with the 225 grain Barnes. I think I'm on my 3rd box.

I'd be trying a different bullet if I couldn't find a 1" load in 50-100 bullets.
 
To the OP. Choose a bullet weight and type for your caliber and buy a box. Load a few different powders and see what groups look like. Fine tune from there.
 
I'm obstinate.

Nobody else makes a readily available 225 grain .358 pill. I'm going to call some of the boutique copper bullet makers to see what they can do, since I need .318 200 grainers & .338 200 grain flat nose as well.

Pack to the OP though - I tend to do a variation of ladder testing by having a starting load and increase powder charges in .2 - .4 grain increments until I reach the velocity and accuracy I'm looking for. I work on seating depth, etc after I hit decent accuracy and velocity to really tighten it up.
 
I'm obstinate.

Nobody else makes a readily available 225 grain .358 pill. I'm going to call some of the boutique copper bullet makers to see what they can do, since I need .318 200 grainers & .338 200 grain flat nose as well.

Pack to the OP though - I tend to do a variation of ladder testing by having a starting load and increase powder charges in .2 - .4 grain increments until I reach the velocity and accuracy I'm looking for. I work on seating depth, etc after I hit decent accuracy and velocity to really tighten it up.

Sounds good to me.

Another question: thinking of only buying one set of dies right now. Should I start with just reloading my 9mm to get some practice in and then move on to the '06?
 
I'd buy both sets of dies now. Reloading pistol and rifle are a bit different procedures but you will get the hang of it in no time.
The pistol loading may require a crimp and loading for your 06 will require more detailed steps as to your powder charge and OAL.
 
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Sounds good to me.

Another question: thinking of only buying one set of dies right now. Should I start with just reloading my 9mm to get some practice in and then move on to the '06?

While the two processes are similar the 9mm will require 1 or more different steps (case flaring and possibly a separate crimp) that the 30-06 will not. I won't steer you away from reloading for the 9mm but only if you want to.

You don't need to spend $120 on Redding Neck Bushing dies right now. The Lee, RCBS, and Hornady 2 die sets will work just fine for 30-06. I have the cheapo Lee dies set for a buddy's 30-06 and it'll do 1" groups all day long. I use the Lee Ultimate die set with my 6.5 Creedmoor and I can't get it to shoot worse than 1/2" groups.

EDIT: Looks like somebody got this answered for you.
 
If you have the cash on hand, get both sets of dies. You don't have to use one until you get the hang of the other. Like I remind my wife about the fancy copper pans and my use of a cheaper everyday pan, it's not like the fancy ones will go bad.
 
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