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Reloading problem.

Speeddmn said:
fastest method to figure out if a case issue or a bullet issue, take a sharpie and color the bullet and the shoulder. Load the round, and try to chamber, then open the bolt and look. If the marker is rubbed off the shoulder, then you need to bumper that back during the sizing, if rubbed off the bullet and not the shoulder, seat the bullet a tad deeper until you and chamber it.

I've never had issue with fired brass in said rifle for what I am loading (fired from same rifle I am loading for). I have run into issue of not seating the bullet enough for a friend 243 when we changed up the projectile. Just had to re-measure and then adjust seating depth a tad.
Click to expand...
Sharpies are handy to have on the loading bench...!
 
Hopefully you got figured out, Old Man.
As others said, it's likely just that the resizing die needs turned in a half turn at a time till it pushes the shoulder back enough.
 
You said some chambered and some don't. Probably different makes of brass with thicker walls.
You may need to adjust the decapping pin also to allow proper function.
 
old man said:
New Sako finn light in 300 wm. and only shot one load accurately by gun smith who dosn't no exactly which load it was.(the gun smith does work for Sako.) Leupole scope and rings, i can hit the bull at 200 yards standing freehand with my rugger 308 .
Click to expand...

Sounds like this rig might be making a trip back across the pond. Never met a Sako that didn't shoot lights out.
 
Did you "squish" the shoulder and change the angle ? Sorry don't know the technical terms but early on I had my die turned down too low and was affecting the shoulder angle, rounds would not chamber.
 
Which is why every reloader (new or experienced) needs to learn to measure shoulder set back rather than just "turn the die down a little".
 
Last edited:
Just curious if the brass were fire formed to your rifle chamber why full length resize? They should be good to go with perhaps just a trim to length ?
I'm asking, defer to more knowledgeable reloaders.
Perhaps the once fired were not from the same rifle.
 
Interesting conundrum, Another thing to look at is case expansion above the belt. I shoot a max load in my 257 Wby. After resizing with an RCBS die following a second firing the brass is hard chamber in my rifle. At that point the expanded brass above the belt was a bit springy and the RCBS die wouldn't squeeze it in enough to set it back. It's possible that that particular FL die was a bad match for my chamber.

I now use a Redding body die and haven't had the problem since, however I have to size the necks in a separate step. Another option I found in my research is a collet die designed for belted magnums that only sizes that section of the case above the belt. I forget the name of the company that makes it.

Good luck and let us know what you figure out.
 
wytex said:
Did you "squish" the shoulder and change the angle ? Sorry don't know the technical terms but early on I had my die turned down too low and was affecting the shoulder angle, rounds would not chamber.
Click to expand...

I have to hear this. How in the world do you set the die down to low and change the angle of the shoulder? All of the direction's for setting FL dies I've seen say to raise the ran then screw the die down to touch the ram and then lower the ran and take another half turn!
 
If you scew it in way to far it will crush the brass. Some do this trying to get the decapper to push out the primer. Not realizing the decapping pin needs adjusted instead of the die.
Some dies don't adjust as they should by following the directions. I have had a couple RCBS dies that needed to be turned in over one and a half turns , after touching the ram.
That can easily confuse a new loader. Just as a new loader can make numerous other mistakes.
I'm sure we are not all perfect.
 
Not directed at any one individual or individuals, but this a good reminder on why it is not a good idea to not shoot another man's reloads.
 
Having loaded for many different calibers for many different people over a lot of years the most common cause of the situation mentioned above is not what most people think. I can't tell you how many shell holders I have had to turn down in a lathe because they are out of spec - way too thick. Some of the newer ones are the worse. Most people don't know what a shell holder thickness should be (.125) let alone know how to measure it or even think that there is a need to measure. If the shell holder is in spec you may have to turn the bottom of your resizing die down a few thousands. All of the above is assuming the operator is competent in setting things up correctly in the reloading process.
 
dalbo said:
Interesting conundrum, Another thing to look at is case expansion above the belt. I shoot a max load in my 257 Wby. After resizing with an RCBS die following a second firing the brass is hard chamber in my rifle. At that point the expanded brass above the belt was a bit springy and the RCBS die wouldn't squeeze it in enough to set it back. It's possible that that particular FL die was a bad match for my chamber.

I now use a Redding body die and haven't had the problem since, however I have to size the necks in a separate step. Another option I found in my research is a collet die designed for belted magnums that only sizes that section of the case above the belt. I forget the name of the company that makes it.

Good luck and let us know what you figure out.
Click to expand...

It is the Willis Collet Die, made and sold by Larry Willis. I have one for my .340 Weatherby- worth it's weight in gold !! Able to salvage brass that were unusable before.
 
FAIR CHASE said:
Which is why every reloader (new or experienced) needs to learn to measure shoulder set back rather than just "turn the die down a little".
Click to expand...

I turn the die down to where it works and lock the die in right there. Only cartridge I have two of is 243. They each have a die of their own.
 
Fire_9 said:
What was the solution?
Click to expand...

shoulder to far forward. die was set for last sako that didn't shoot well either. But i figured they improved them since they guaranty 1MOA with 5 shots of their ammo . it sure doesn't like their 180 grain hammerheads or any other 180 gr factory ammo.i am going to go broke trying to find a load this rifle likes. certainly will never own another Sako.
 
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