European mount

pabearhunter · Dec 12, 2017

Has anyone sprayed the skull on a european mount with clear lacquer and if yes was it to shiny. Thank you in advance.

Mtdog · Dec 12, 2017

Use a matte clear finish. You'll like the sheen much better. It can yellow over time though especially if it gets much uv exposure.

Melman · Dec 12, 2017

I've seen them with lacquer or even painted white and never cared for it. I would suggest just leaving it white. looks more natural in my opinion. but to each his own. I have mine done with the flesh eating beetles and bleached with peroxide

Melman · Dec 12, 2017

Close up might be better. the beetles really do a good job and I like how all the sinus cavity material stays intact

pabearhunter · Dec 12, 2017

Melman said:
I've seen them with lacquer or even painted white and never cared for it. I would suggest just leaving it white. looks more natural in my opinion. but to each his own. I have mine done with the flesh eating beetles and bleached with peroxide View attachment 77920

I have seen some guy's use mop and glow and some use elmers glue. I don't use any whitener either. I guess if it gets dusty you can just wash it off.

375H&H · Dec 12, 2017

Mtdog said:
Use a matte clear finish. You'll like the sheen much better. It can yellow over time though especially if it gets much uv exposure.

This. We have also found the sealer helps quite a bit in keeping the skull from drying out and cracking.

MinnesotaHunter · Dec 12, 2017

I have used this in the past and it does a great job tightening everything up (IE: teeth, bone joints, etc) and it is undetectable once it dries. There is another thread going on right now that talks about the risks of sealing a skull, due to grease leaching out and sealing prevents you from cleaning it off. So far I have not had an issue with the skulls I have sealed, but I have degreased pretty well, and they were deer and elk vs fattier animals like hogs/bears.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-12-oz-Clear-Sealer-Topcoat-Ultra-Matte-Interior-Chalked-Spray-Paint-302599/206603189

The Hedgehog · Dec 12, 2017

Having done it in the past, I'd never paint anything, clear or not, on a skull. I clean 20-30 skulls a year, and have been doing it since the early 80s. Have seen results across the spectrum of horrible to perfect, and just wouldn't ever recommend painting them. Not all skulls show apparent grease initially and can yellow over time. If you lock it in with a clear coat, there's no fixing it. To each their own. Beetles do a fine job if you can get them out of the skull afterwards. I prefer to cook, below boiling, for only as long as necessary, and scrape meat as you go. If done right, you can keep all the nasal bones intact. Ideally, then degrease (TSP has given me the best results) in warm water for several weeks, then I soak in 40 volume developer for several days. I use a toothbrush and paper towel with lemon oil on all horns and antlers to bring out the natural color.

MinnesotaHunter · Dec 12, 2017

GH, Do you use the TSP powder or liquid, and just follow the mixing instructions on the package, or do you mix stronger/weaker? It looks like they have a couple different ratios on the package.

The Hedgehog · Dec 12, 2017

I've only used the powder and mix it much stronger than advertised, just make sure it's completely dissolved.

MinnesotaHunter · Dec 12, 2017

I am going to give it a try with my whitetail from this year. In the past I have used Dawn, which did ok, but this sounds better.

npaden · Dec 12, 2017

I had to look up what TSP was. Sounds better and cheaper than using Dawn to me too.

My beetles are not doing great right now, I'm about to give up and do my first ever attempt at cleaning a skull doing the simmer method.

A co-worker's 12 year old daughter shot this buck on opening weekend and they didn't find it until a couple weeks ago. It grosses 187 but doesn't make the minimum book either as a typical or non-typical due to a lot of deductions either way. It is just crazy the way the non-typical points get you going and coming, if someone knocked a few abnormal points off it would make book easy.

Untitled by naathan2, on Flickr

Untitled by naathan2, on Flickr

My co-worker is going to do the euro on it himself but I've offered to help to make sure he doesn't screw it up for his daughter.

MinnesotaHunter · Dec 12, 2017

GH, you sound like you have done this more than anyone else I know, so what do you use for heating the water, and keeping it at a simmer so the bones don't separate? I have been using a propane burner (turkey fryer) and it is a pain to try and regulate the temp just below boiling, it is constantly spiking and dipping.

I have been considering doing the laundry tub (big enough for elk skulls), water heater element, thermostat, thermocouple setup. Anyone tried this.

The Hedgehog · Dec 12, 2017

I have a custom made rectangular stainless steel pot that perfectly fits on a double cast iron propane burner. I turn it down as low as it'll go and it will keep the water below a boil. I rarely have bones separate, unless you count the two nasal bones. Especially on very young deer/antelope, I have to often epoxy those back on after whitening. I did recently have a 2 year old deer completely fall apart on me, the hunter had it soaking in water for over 6 weeks before bringing it by. 2 hours in the heated water, after that, left it to where it had to be skull plated. Bummer deal. I frequently remove the heads from the water and scrape off what I can, but rarely will anything but the nasal bones come off. I have 3 coyotes I'll be finishing up and will put a pic up when they are done. I degreased them for 2 months in TSP.

pabearhunter · Dec 12, 2017

Greenhorn said:
I have a custom made rectangular stainless steel pot that perfectly fits on a double cast iron propane burner. I turn it down as low as it'll go and it will keep the water below a boil. I rarely have bones separate, unless you count the two nasal bones. Especially on very young deer/antelope, I have to often epoxy those back on after whitening. I did recently have a 2 year old deer completely fall apart on me, the hunter had it soaking in water for over 6 weeks before bringing it by. 2 hours in the heated water, after that, left it to where it had to be skull plated. Bummer deal. I frequently remove the heads from the water and scrape off what I can, but rarely will anything but the nasal bones come off. I have 3 coyotes I'll be finishing up and will put a pic up when they are done. I degreased them for 2 months in TSP.

I used oxiclean at a simmer for 1 hour clean skull and then back into tub for 1 hour clean skull and change water oxiclean and dish soap. 1 hour clean skull back into tub for 1 hour and finish cleaning. I think the main think is to make sure you get all the brains out . Done

MinnesotaHunter · Dec 12, 2017

pabearhunter said:
I used oxiclean at a simmer for 1 hour clean skull and then back into tub for 1 hour clean skull and change water oxiclean and dish soap. 1 hour clean skull back into tub for 1 hour and finish cleaning. I think the main think is to make sure you get all the brains out . Done

The more time I spend cleaning the skull right after killing it, the easier the process. I have been using a wire clothes hanger to get in and scramble up the brains, pull off the lower jaw, peel off the palet, hide, eyes, etc. Shortens the simmering time up for me.

MinnesotaHunter · Dec 12, 2017

Greenhorn said:
I have a custom made rectangular stainless steel pot that perfectly fits on a double cast iron propane burner. I turn it down as low as it'll go and it will keep the water below a boil. I rarely have bones separate, unless you count the two nasal bones. Especially on very young deer/antelope, I have to often epoxy those back on after whitening. I did recently have a 2 year old deer completely fall apart on me, the hunter had it soaking in water for over 6 weeks before bringing it by. 2 hours in the heated water, after that, left it to where it had to be skull plated. Bummer deal. I frequently remove the heads from the water and scrape off what I can, but rarely will anything but the nasal bones come off. I have 3 coyotes I'll be finishing up and will put a pic up when they are done. I degreased them for 2 months in TSP.

I probably just have a crappy burner.

I may still try the heating element deal. Kind of like a sous-vide for skull cleaning.

pabearhunter · Dec 12, 2017

MinnesotaHunter said:
I probably just have a crappy burner.

I may still try the heating element deal. Kind of like a sous-vide for skull cleaning.

I use a double burner camp stove.

MT_elk · Dec 13, 2017

I made a 'boiler bucket' that works great. You can get various versions and plans from the good ole internet. I have done several this way and they have all turned out great.

pabearhunter · Dec 13, 2017

Looks good. great buck.

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