Case Lube

So, forgive the dumb question - what is the purpose of case lube?

It keeps the case from getting stuck in the die.

Pistol & straight wall ases can get away with a carbide ring and no case, but rifle brass & cases with shoulders need it.

Imperial wax or unique case lube for all sizing. Was getting a lot of stuck cases with one shot for some reason, probably my own fault.
 
All metal will spring back (strain) to some degree after being stressed so when you compress cartridge brass in a die it will be forced to the shape of the die and then it will try to expand back a few thousands of an inch and create what is called an interference fit (the metals are forced against each other). The friction of this fit will stick the case in the die unless you find a way to keep the metals from having direct contact, that's what the lube does for you, it creates a thin separation between the case and the die, the two metals slip and slide against the lube and frictional forces are reduced enough that you can pull the case out of the die.

I like to use Imperial wax because it leaves a thinner layer of lube so my cases come out more consistent and it takes very little to do the job. I can make a small 2oz tin of lube last for several thousand .308 cases, that means that the lube is actually much cheaper than other brands because I use far less lube per case.
 
I just switched off One-Shot. I'd been using it for 15 years or so, I just get tired of the residue on my loading blocks. One shot is convenient, and I'll probably keep using when I'm doing large batches for the pistols. But for my rifles, it's not worth the mess to me. I'm probably doing something wrong with it.

I grabbed a RCBS pad because I didn't feel like spending that much time researching (and it's what I used as a kid).
 
I use Imperial Sizing Die Wax and a little goes a long way. Since I have to handle each case when resizing, one swipe of the wax will do several cases. I've tried the spay stuff and, although it is quick, the overspray is just too messy for my small reloading bench.
 
I don't like the mess or the cost of the sprays.
I like wax lube. Used the Lee and RCBS for years ,but I sure like the Hornady wax alot better. It spreads thin and goes a long way. A very little goes on easy and can be wiped off before sizing to prevent it building up in the die.
It's pretty inexpensive also.
 
The spray lube being too expensive cracks me up. I use it with plastic trays that I spray off in the sink. It won't get all over your bench if you don't spray on the bench. mtmuley
 
The idea that any kind of spray is going to be as cost effective as something that you wipe on the case cracks me up even more.

If the cost of lube for handloading is an issue for you, it might not be your thing. mtmuley
 
If the cost of lube for handloading is an issue for you, it might not be your thing. mtmuley

Actually after having been reloading for almost 50 years I don't think you're qualified to tell me what works for me, and with the persona you project your opinion isn't worth much to me anyways. I don't really care what lube you choose to use but it's pretty stupid to believe that any spray is going to be more cost effective than a lube that is wiped on to the case. Sprays are always going to have waste since they project the product in a large area on and around the case while a lube that is wiped on is only applied directly on the case. Additionally, the fact that Imperial wax is simply a better lubricant, I see no reason to waste my time on a spray. And yes, I've tried all of the lubes mentioned so far and I've settled on Imperial sizing wax for my needs.
 
I too prefer the standard liquid lube you put on a pad. Much cleaner to deal with and a small bottle goes a long way. I've tried one shot and don't really care for the over spray, as many have already mentioned and I've got a couple of stuck cases while using it. Time savings with spray? Not really as the couple minutes saved in lubing cases in spent in cleaning over spray. I can put 20 cases on my pad and give it a roll with one hand back and forth and there lubed to perfection...typically I do around 60 cases before I need to add more lube to the pad. What am I resizing? 270 or 30-06 cases into 6mm-06, or just resizing already shot 6mm-06 brass and various cases of 7mm-08, 243 and 30-06 rounds. Some have mentioned the expense, I tend to agree...any extra expense I have in reloading is spent in premium bullets
and brass not on lube.

...When necking down brass from 30 cal. to 24 cal. with one shot, I lost 6 cases out of 50 and got 1 of those 6 stuck. With a lubed pad, I'll loose three or four if I'm not careful with none ever getting stuck. I know some of you are thinking, why doesn't he size down in steps? When I got started, reloading the wildcat 6mm-06 I just tried sizing 30-06 shells in one step to 6mm and the loss of 4 to 5 cases was acceptable so I never looked back.

Rammac don't let the internet experts ruffle your feathers...with 50 years experience you've probably forgotten more than most have learned...and far more experienced than myself. I'm sure One Shot has got it's merits, as some strongly attest, but it's not for me, even if it was free.

Now, if you want to know how to properly load a dishwasher, ask my wife and kids, I've definitely got some strong opinions about it.
 
Actually after having been reloading for almost 50 years I don't think you're qualified to tell me what works for me, and with the persona you project your opinion isn't worth much to me anyways. I don't really care what lube you choose to use but it's pretty stupid to believe that any spray is going to be more cost effective than a lube that is wiped on to the case. Sprays are always going to have waste since they project the product in a large area on and around the case while a lube that is wiped on is only applied directly on the case. Additionally, the fact that Imperial wax is simply a better lubricant, I see no reason to waste my time on a spray. And yes, I've tried all of the lubes mentioned so far and I've settled on Imperial sizing wax for my needs.

Guess I missed the part where I stated it was more cost effective. In the hand loading process, the paltry cost of lube is the last thing of worry, at least to me. Guess I haven't learned anything in my 35 years of doing it. Have a nice day. mtmuley
 
I was running a shop years ago and a new hire got sent in, like all new hires I started him on something simple - a small batch of paint grade face frame parts. Lined him out how we needed it done, precise sized, surfaced faces and sanded edges.. "Yeah, yeah, yeah, I got this".

He finished up later and I checked his work. All parts were to size with saw cut edges, all were unusable. I pointed this error out and the newbie said "This is how I've always done them. I've been doing this for 20 years!". "Well", I replied, "You've been doing it wrong for 20 years".

He was gone at the end of the day.
 
I know this post is not excessively new, but I did not see what I use for case lube on here. I have used the RCBS Case Lube and pad for a while now but I did not care for how thick it got and how hard it was to get out of the bottle onto the pad when it got cold. An old reloader told me to try castor oil and it works like a charm. Also, I live in a rural area and have to order my reloading supplies, but I can find castor oil just about anywhere.
 
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