Getting Started

Brian in Montana said:
So do you guys find that brass that has been fired once, in the rifle you're loading for, to be more accurate than brand new? Or does that really make much difference?
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I am new to this as well, but from my reading, for hunting no useful difference, for F class competitors there is a difference. I am starting out focused on getting .5-1.0 MOA hunting accuracy and may or may not begin gnat's eyebrow measurements down the road (but not for now).
 
Brian in Montana said:
So do you guys find that brass that has been fired once, in the rifle you're loading for, to be more accurate than brand new? Or does that really make much difference?
Click to expand...

IME, its never been that apparent to me if there is.

I agree with OHTB, you do work the brass less with neck sizing, but I still prefer to bump the shoulder just a bit.

I'm a hunter first, and I don't want anything to go haywire when I'm out there, and neck sizing only could be an issue. I just eliminate that from the equation.
 
I haven't really noticed a difference in my hunting rifles though I prefer to be in control of as much as possible when loading so I always fireform my brass even if I'm going to full length resize (like Buzz I actually do more of a shoulder bump than full size). In new rifles, I use fireforming as a way to get to know the rifle as well as do a rudimentary break in.

With my "target rifle" the difference is noticeable between virgin brass and fireformed though my experience is limited in target rifles so it could be a fluke. I use the term target rifle loosely as it is by no means one of those expensive precision guns.
 
Addicting said:
I just wanted to thank BuzzH for this info. I ordered the 140g Accubonds today and they worked out to .29 per bullet for 500. That is right around a .25 savings over MidwayUSA or my local Cabela's. I also ordered RL16 and CCI primers, I am hoping to make a good cocktail out that for my 6.5 Man bun.

Quick math gets me to about .80 per round for a total of the 500ish rounds. (Figured at 43 grains, not having a working recipe and not including the cases I already have)
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Whats the twist rate on your Manbun? I have a .260 that I have been considering a 140grn Accubond load for.
 
Well, here's the product of mys first session. 45 rounds of 7mm-08. I'm loading 140grn Accubonds, started with 38 grains of Varget and worked my way up to 42 grains in .5 grain increments - 5 rounds per load.

It wasn't without a hiccup or two. I need to get out to the range now and see what happens. :cool:
 

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I’m not sure if you are marking your cases in some way or not. I use a sharpie and label them 1, 2 etc. Make a load chart on a notepad. Pretty stickers are great but the first time you tip over your ammo case and have 25 unmarked test loads you’ll know what I mean. Also, I usually do my first work up in one grain increments. I typically find the 0.5 grain jumps on the low end aren’t very worthwhile.
 
I'm tuned in for the results as well. I'm going thru the same process for my new 7mm 08. Varget and 140 Accubonds is going to be on the menu for this coming weekend.
 
MinnesotaHunter said:
If you don't mind, post the results. Mine is a Northwest Action Works with a 22" Shilen 1:8.
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I did my test today and posted it over on the Mag Speed vrs Chronograph thread.

For keeping my loads separated I went took the snack ziplocks I make my kids lunch with. I made up 5 round baggies with a paper slip. Threw them all in a box and took that to the range.
 
I'm going to try and get to the range next Sunday. Saturdays are primarily for skiing this time of year.

I kind of wish I'd started with some cheap bullets just to get the hang of it before loading up Accubonds. At both the case trimming and bullet seating stage, I noticed that I got more precise as I went along. The powder charge was hyper-meticulous, but in the end, my COL's are slightly under 2.8", all within about 3 thousandths. Like I said, I got better as I went along. I hope that variance isn't enough to throw things off much.

One setback I had - I loaded 5 rounds without primers. I noticed this by happening to see powder in the loading tray. I thought, "that's weird" and initially thought I wasn't using my funnel correctly. Then I figured it out and got a little experience with my new impact bullet puller. I was hoping not to need that particular tool.
 
I ordered a chrono yesterday. Always something else I need. I'm going to wait on shooting these until I get that. That way I'll have MV as well as accuracy data.
 
Brian in Montana said:
One setback I had - I loaded 5 rounds without primers. I noticed this by happening to see powder in the loading tray. I thought, "that's weird" and initially thought I wasn't using my funnel correctly. Then I figured it out and got a little experience with my new impact bullet puller. I was hoping not to need that particular tool.
Click to expand...

This thread has been awesome to read...I did that once too. Part of the learning curve.
 
Brian,
Looking good! Don't worry we have all done that. I know I have.
As far as marking your rounds I color the bullet and mark the primer with a sharpie in blue,green,black and red. I write which color in my notes goes to which load. Works easy for me.

Are you measuring your OAL off the bullet tip?
 
Been there, done me that. I’ve gotten pretty good with my bullet puller over the years
 
I was looking back over this thread and thinking about how far I've come with my understanding of reloading, but there are still a handful of things I'm not too clear on. For example, looking at the measurements of the .308 casing in the Hornady manual, here's a question about case length - there is a "Max Case Length" of 2.015" and a "Case Trim Length" of 2.005". I'm not sure which to use when preparing casings. I assume these 2 measurements represent something of a maximum and minimum parameters?

On the batch of 7mm-08 I did, I sort of split the difference. Is it wise to do that, or should I go with one or the other?
 
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