200 yd zero

mtmuley said:

What Corvette you driving? mtmuley

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Don Fischer said:

Upper end of the arc? Is that the mid range height? And after that do they start adjusting by moving the turret's? Sounds screwy to me but if it work's for them, more power to them. Some scope have hash marks that are suppose to be aiming point's at different yardages. How can they possibly determine the place for the marks on all rifle's like that? What do they call that zero at 200 yds program?

I have been using MPBR for a lot of years and I usually set it for a 6" target. The max range in fact the zero range is farther than I shoot to begin with.

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VikingsGuy said:

This is an important point, regardless of where/how you initially zero, eventually shooting out 200 or 300 yds really starts to give you enough distance to see some of the smaller biases that may just look like normal variation at 100 yds.

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pointingdogsrule said:

DON & others: I will "only comment" on the hash marks in the scope. I have the Burris FULLFIELD... Ballistic Plex E1. 6.5 x 20. I love this scope.
http://www.burrisoptics.com/scopes/...es-series/fullfield-e1-riflescope-6.5-20x50mm

It has the hash marks. The hash marks are NOT corresponding to a specific yardage. example 100, 200. 300 yards. The hash marks are only for reference once the rifle is sighted in to a specific yardage.
http://www.burrisoptics.com/reticles/ballistic-plex-e1-mv

I sight my gun in at 100 yards. I then use an "APP" on my phone that tells me what each "hash" mark corresponds to. It is made by "Sterlok".
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.borisov.strelok&hl=en

Really cool "APP". Input: scope model, zero distance, caliber, distance to target, wind speed and other things and it will give you a corresponding value for each "hash" mark. I have all five rifles saved and can pull up any distance in a matter of seconds.

For my .223...
first mark is 100
2nd is 150
3rd 218
4th 293
5th 375
6th456
7th 556

Cool APP. NOTE: I have not shot past 286 yards with the guns. Really nice when shooting P-dogs

good luck to all
the dog

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grandejuan said:

I've found that my groups are often better at 200 yds than at 100. If I get 1" groups at 100, I've found my 200 yd groups are often still 1". At 300 they are 1.5-2.0" if there is not much crosswind blowing. I don't know if the bullets haven't quite gone to "sleep" at 100 could cause this? I shoot .338 Nosler partition 250 gr bullets from my .340 Weatherby mag at 3050 fps and have had similar results from my .270 Weatherby mag shooting 140 gr Failsafe bullets at 3300 fps. If anything my .270 groups are about .2" tighter at distance than the .340 groups. Have any of you seen similar results? I've not shot the longer mono metal bullets and wonder if twist rates factor in? Both of my barrels are Douglas premium match barrels with 1 in 10 twists. GJ

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Dougfirtree said:

I believe this is because some bullets stabilize faster than others. The ones that take a while, tend to be more consistent at longer ranges than they are at short ranges. I've heard that bullets without a boat tail tend to stabilize quickly, while boat tailed bullets tend to take longer. Makes a certain amount of sense...

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belly-deep said:

Bullets don't "go to sleep" or stabilize during flight. That myth has been debunked.

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Millsworks said:

I have always believed the tighter groups at any farther range ,rather than a closer range were because of shooter concentration problems and or optic focus error at closer target.

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