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Pin Gap Spacing

LandDiver

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Sep 24, 2016
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Mtn. Home, ID
I'm toying with the idea of moving up to 31" draw. I rather have my hold hand fully extended rather then bent. With my 30" draw, the spacing between pins are already pretty tight. Will increasing the draw length an inch, therefor putting a little extra speed behind the arrow tighten the spacing more? I don't know what my FPS is. Heading to the city for a baby checkup, and might stop in at the pro shop there.

Thank you.
 
I don't think it will make a difference assuming the peak draw weight remains the same.
 
I'm toying with the idea of moving up to 31" draw. I rather have my hold hand fully extended rather then bent. With my 30" draw, the spacing between pins are already pretty tight. Will increasing the draw length an inch, therefor putting a little extra speed behind the arrow tighten the spacing more? I don't know what my FPS is. Heading to the city for a baby checkup, and might stop in at the pro shop there.

Thank you.

I believe it should increase the spacing but minimally, you may not see a huge change in your grouping. Do you not have the option on your sight to move it closer/further (in this case farther) to/from the riser?
 
I believe it should increase the spacing but minimally, you may not see a huge change in your grouping. Do you not have the option on your sight to move it closer/further (in this case farther) to/from the riser?

My sight is mounted as far as it can from the riser. I wish I could move it a touch further. I put on the broadheads the other day to get them tuned in and the gap spacing got sucked up big time with them on. I don't remember it being like this last November.
 
Going another 1" on your draw length will add speed. I am not sure if it will add enough speed to make a difference on the pin gap.

When you shoot your bow are you framing the peep on the sight housing or are you framing the peep on each pin? This will change your pin gaps. I would suggest framing on the sight housing.

Take a look at John Dudley and knock on archery. He has a ton of great information on it. He has some great stuff on draw length sizing.
 
How big are your pins? I switched to a site with all 5 pins being .010 for that very reason. In hindsight I should have switched to a slider...I may anyway. Hope all is well with the baby check.
 
I'm toying with the idea of moving up to 31" draw. I rather have my hold hand fully extended rather then bent. With my 30" draw, the spacing between pins are already pretty tight. Will increasing the draw length an inch, therefor putting a little extra speed behind the arrow tighten the spacing more? I don't know what my FPS is. Heading to the city for a baby checkup, and might stop in at the pro shop there.

Thank you.

can't help with your question, but I live min Mountain Home and have been looking for an archery pro shop, which shop would you recommend?
 
Going another 1" on your draw length will add speed. I am not sure if it will add enough speed to make a difference on the pin gap.

When you shoot your bow are you framing the peep on the sight housing or are you framing the peep on each pin? This will change your pin gaps. I would suggest framing on the sight housing.

Take a look at John Dudley and knock on archery. He has a ton of great information on it. He has some great stuff on draw length sizing.

I have the whole housing centered in the peep. I have a 3/8" peep. If I could move the housing out just a touch more I could get the whole ring of the housing inside the peep. Right now it's barely there. The sight I have is pretty big though, last I remember its right at 2.5" I think. I'll check him out. Thank you.
 
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How big are your pins? I switched to a site with all 5 pins being .010 for that very reason. In hindsight I should have switched to a slider...I may anyway. Hope all is well with the baby check.

Pins are .019 in size. At 50 yards the pin completely covers my 4" circle target. I did purchase a HHA single pin sight with .010 pin but my quiver don't fit on the damn thing.

Thank you. Baby is 5 days old lol! He game mommy the next 3 months off. I can't wait till September!
 
Adding an inch of draw length to a bow is generally a poor idea. EVery piece of info I've ever seen says that a shorter draw length is better than a longer one. The minute gain in speed will not make a huge difference in pin gap and it will likely get lost in the drop in accuracy.

This is one of those moments where I would say give it a try and see, but it is such a major change than you may not get to fully test it out. Everything in your system will change with a change in draw length. Arrows, rest, nock point, sight, etc. Seems like a pretty major change for an arbitrary reason this close to hunting season. There is some software and apps out there than can help you guestamate and pin spacings with a bit of info. Might help.
 
Adding an inch of draw length to a bow is generally a poor idea. EVery piece of info I've ever seen says that a shorter draw length is better than a longer one.

Not necessarily true. A draw length can be both too long, or too short. Many people have one that's too long (Leaning Back, string past the tip of the nose), but then you have the people who bend their bow arm too much to get the string to their nose (too short).

My advice - watch this video, not for the trick in measuring draw length, but paying attention to correct form and how you should look at full draw.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oG0nb01SGMA

The only wild card is - wrist position. High, Low, Medium wrist. My advice is shoot with the grip you are most comfortable with, extended but not stressed bow arm, and adjust your draw length to get the string right at the tip of your nose like in the video.

Then - mess with the sight. I use a spott hogg hogg father with a dovetail that I can extend way out or way in. I set mine up through a torque tuning process to find the most forgiving location - and then choose the peep size and centering rings for the scope. Pin gaps are what they are at that point - you can always use pins every 15 yards or every 20 yards if your gaps are too tight.


. Everything in your system will change with a change in draw length. Arrows, rest, nock point, sight, etc. Seems like a pretty major change for an arbitrary reason this close to hunting season.

Arrows, rest, nock point may stay the same - but you could run into spine issues if you're close on spine, and you will need to re-sight.
 
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If the longer draw length is best for you and speed will be the result, then offset the speed with weight! Keep the pin gaps the same and add killing power! Screw on some head weight!
 

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