Bow tuning question

I just changed the strings and cables on my hoyt carbon spyder turbo and now the bow is difficult to draw and even though I have the nocking point at the Berger button the arrow is way below level at full draw, any help is appreciated

Did an archery shop put this on and set it up? If not, I'd take it to one.

Did you double check the string and cable length? If not take them off and compare them to your old set. Also make sure your cable and string routing are correct.

I would also ask who put on strings? If bow shop take it back. If your going to compare length to old ones they need to be measured while being stretched. I would measure Axle to Axle and brace height first. Something is off and out of spec.

Sounds like an issue with the cables. Hard to tune a bow on the internet.

I put the strings on myself, I marked the cam position before I pulled the old ones off and now the mark on the top cam is slightly off I'm going try and add twist to the cable and see what it does

Slightly off isn't going to cause the trouble you are having. Wrong string/cable length or improper string/cable routing will.

Bigjav said:

I put the strings on myself, I marked the cam position before I pulled the old ones off and now the mark on the top cam is slightly off I'm going try and add twist to the cable and see what it does

Click to expand...

I don't do this often enough to remember everything with out my notes but...

If your draw weight is heavy you don't want to add twists to the cables. It will increase draw weight and length.
If you're level at brace but nock low at draw it sounds like a cam timing issue as well.
With out a scale the closest way I know of to get close is to go to hoyts tune chart on their web site and find your bow. Get the specs for axle to axle and brace height and get the bow close to them with the limb bolts bottomed out. Then you need to look at timing to get the cable stops hitting at the same time. It seams on hoyts many people will have the top cam hitting just before the bottom.

I would forget about your mark and look at getting the bow close to spec first. Here is a quick description of cables and what they do I found on my online notes.

Buss cable- a twist in the buss cable advances the top cam (makes it hit sooner), it lengthens draw length, decreases ATA and increases letoff/valley (assuming timing was even before the twist).
ii. Control cable- a twist in the control cable slows down the top cam, shortens draw length. It’s effect on ATA, valley and letoff are dependant on the others.
iii. String- a twist in the string shortens draw length, valley and decreases letoff. It plays a role in ATA and draw weight but it is secondary to to the buss.
iv. All- a twist out produces the opposite effect.

You asked this question on another forum as well I think.

Did you ever determine if you installed and routed the cables and string correctly? Several people have brought that up (There, and here). I would not do, or try anything else until you verify that is correct.

I messed around with the cables and got it fixed. Thanks for all the help guys