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Can an arrow go bad?

LandDiver

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Sep 24, 2016
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Mtn. Home, ID
Is it possible to wear out an arrow from repeated use? I use the same 3 arrows for practice, and just wondering. Been using the same 3 practice arrows for roughly 10 months now.

Thanks.
 
Are you seeing any issues with flight and accuracy? If you are concerned about it, number your arrows, so you can monitor the performance of the individual arrows.

They can definately break down, but in 10 months it is unlikely.
 
That's a tough question to answer. So much depends on how much you practice, what you're shooting into, etc...

If you've practiced for 10 months by shooting tree stumps, then I'd say it's probably time for some new arrows. If you have shot into foam or a forgiving target and never miss, those babies will last a long time.

I agree with MH in that you should definitely keep track of which arrows are flying well. Additionally, be sure to flex them before you have a practice session. There is a distinct crackling sound a carbon arrow makes if its integrity is compromised. Just google some images of people who have shot cracked carbon arrows and that will motivate you to be sure you're shooting strong arrows. 10 mos. is a pretty short time for an arrow to wear out simply from repeated use, though.
 
I have had arrows go bad in 5 sessions... although mainly because I was letting my dog pull them out of the target and bring them back to me. This is not advised... I HAD A BAD DAY
 
Thank you. I will number them starting today. I hit the range 3-4 days a week, and usually spend an hour there. With the evening light staying longer I plan on being more frequent. Currently I only go on my wife's off days.

The target I shoot at is worn out foam targets. But they are so bad that I just put my little orange plate up on the wall target for field points and shoot. I practice with the broadhead I hunt with. The arrows always hit the back wood stop under the foam. Most times it takes a good pull on the arrow to get them out from the wood. Hopefully they switch out all the bad block targets for newer ones soon.

Appreciate the input. Thank you!
 
The arrows always hit the back wood stop under the foam. Most times it takes a good pull on the arrow to get them out from the wood.

This is the only part of what you wrote that would cause me any concern. regularly thumping into wood could cause issues at the arrows tip (cracking around/along the insert), or stress fractures along the length. Definitely monitor their accuracy, if they start to get compromised you should see a drop in accuracy.
 
I number my arrows and in this last batch I got I had one that was always a flyer off high right. The rest flew true, but that one arrow was always wrong, so I stripped the fletchings and re-fletched it and it came back true.
 
This is the only part of what you wrote that would cause me any concern. regularly thumping into wood could cause issues at the arrows tip (cracking around/along the insert), or stress fractures along the length. Definitely monitor their accuracy, if they start to get compromised you should see a drop in accuracy.

This is what made me ask. All of a sudden I had to adjust, and adjust, and adjust. Didn't make any sense to me. I just bought 12 more arrows the other day when we drove to the city. I'll swap out all 3 today, and number them.

Thank you.
 
I number my arrows and in this last batch I got I had one that was always a flyer off high right. The rest flew true, but that one arrow was always wrong, so I stripped the fletchings and re-fletched it and it came back true.

When I bought arrows the other day I had a different guy at the pro shop help me. The first guy who helped me last year actually shot the same bow I had
In years past, and lined me out with 400g arrows. When I went in the other day the other guy mentioned I should be using 350g arrows. Even though 400g was alright, he said it was right in that grey area. I didn't know what to do, and he wasn't really convincing to change so I went with the same arrow.

But fetching length was something I started to read up on a little just yesterday actually. Maybe down the road I'll see what longer ones do.
 
What arrow are you using? Each time you remove them from a target examine each arrow every time. You can damage them the first time you shoot them into a group. I have lost a few due to hitting the shaft with another arrow. If your shooting broadheads then only shoot one then pull it if your using the same aiming point. If not you will ruin a lot of arrows in no time.
 
I number my arrows and in this last batch I got I had one that was always a flyer off high right. The rest flew true, but that one arrow was always wrong, so I stripped the fletchings and re-fletched it and it came back true.

May I suggest next time you find that you try rotating the knock to a different vane up and see what happens before you refletch.
 
What arrow are you using? Each time you remove them from a target examine each arrow every time. You can damage them the first time you shoot them into a group. I have lost a few due to hitting the shaft with another arrow. If your shooting broadheads then only shoot one then pull it if your using the same aiming point. If not you will ruin a lot of arrows in no time.

To be honest I usually only shoot 1 arrow at a time. It slows me down, and I'm able to get more quality reps in. I only started shouting 3 again after I noticed they weren't flying like they used to. After adjusting so much after having everything tuned in just to what I thought was perfect last November was odd to me. I will start all over with sighting it in today with the new arrows.

Thanks everyone. I was slowly driving myself insane.

I am using a BEMAN ICS Bow Hunter 400g carbon arrow.
 
Are you having more than one arrow not flying properly? You could be under or over spined. Do you have a good FOC %?

I am really new to hunting so I had to do a quick Google search on what FOC means. I do not know what my FOC% is though. What you mentioned about being over or under spined is what I think o was referring to earlier with what the second guy at the pro shop suggested. I currently use 400g arrows and he thought I should be using 350g arrows. When he looked at a chart he said I was right in a grey area. Maybe I should have bought a few of those 350g arrows to test out?
 
Switched out all 3 arrows this afternoon. Dialed everything in again. Much much better, but could have been even better. Even though I hated it I also switched out all the broadheads to new ones. I've been using those same 3 broadhead for practice for about the same amount of time as the old arrows. Quickly ruined 2 new arrows after that because the grouping was tight. Went back to only 1 arrow. 1 broadhead no longer had a point on it, and the other 2 had bent blades from getting stuck in the wood. Ordered more broadheads as well. Was hitting my 5" circle at 50 yards the rest of the day again. Felt great! Just what I needed before heading into the back country for 2 days on Monday and Tuesday in search for a bear.

Thanks everyone for the help. Greatly appreciated.
 
Arrow weight and spine are 2 different things. Spine is stiffness, the amount the arrow flexes in flight. Higher weight and draw length the higher the spine needs to be. When you buy a 250 350 450 arrow, thats referencing the spine and not the weight of the arrow. Look at the back of the box itll tell you what spine the manufacturer suggests for your draw weight and length.

But yes, arrows can go bad. Inspect before each shot as ive seen damaged arrows explode. I know a guy who was shooting off his deck. The bottom limb smaked the railing...arrow snapped and a 10 inch section from the nock down went in and stuck through his thumb and index finger.
 
Just a quick clarification from the last post. A "higher" (stiffer) spine is a lower number. For example, a 300 spine is stiffer than a 340 spine. Gold Tip recommends that if you are in a grey area to choose the stiffer spine, especially if your broadheads are longer than your field points. Here is a link to Gold Tip's website calculator for FOC, spine, etc. Even if you aren't shooting Gold Tips, this will help point you in the right direction (https://www.goldtip.com/Resources/Calculators.aspx).
 
Just a quick clarification from the last post. A "higher" (stiffer) spine is a lower number. For example, a 300 spine is stiffer than a 340 spine. Gold Tip recommends that if you are in a grey area to choose the stiffer spine, especially if your broadheads are longer than your field points. Here is a link to Gold Tip's website calculator for FOC, spine, etc. Even if you aren't shooting Gold Tips, this will help point you in the right direction (https://www.goldtip.com/Resources/Calculators.aspx).

Carbon express goes the other way on spine rating.
 
I have a 30" draw using the 400 arrows. I would imagine the field points on them are a 100g (I hope!) because that's the weight of my broadhead (100g G5 Striker). As of now I think they are flying pretty good. Of course since he mentioned the 350g arrow curiosity has never left. If I am going to try them I need to do so now. The archery range on base will soon be flooded with people. I guess the only question I need to find out would be what would be the pros and cons of a 400g vs 350g arrow.

What do you guys think? My draw weight is 60lbs.

This is my arrow length below with tape sitting on top of the nock:
 

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