Scope sliding

Jasher

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 14, 2016
Messages
711
Would lapping the rings stop a scope from sliding? I have a one piece base on a tikka t3 308 and every time I try to sight it in I see that the scope is sliding back.
 
I wouldn't mount a scope without lapping personally. You might try Ring True ring tape. Supposed to work well.
 
Couple of other options. Try using some powdered rosin on the rings/scope. May provide just enough grip to keep them in place. Or even a small smear of rubber cement. Before I'd spend the money for a lapping bar to lap the existing rings, I switch base/rings to allow me to use the Signature Rings from Burris. They come with nylon inserts that should keep them from moving and also allow you to tilt or center the scope if you prefer.
 
Couple of other options. Try using some powdered rosin on the rings/scope. May provide just enough grip to keep them in place. Or even a small smear of rubber cement. Before I'd spend the money for a lapping bar to lap the existing rings, I switch base/rings to allow me to use the Signature Rings from Burris. They come with nylon inserts that should keep them from moving and also allow you to tilt or center the scope if you prefer.

I'll second that rubber cement option. I had a model 700 Remington in 35 Whelen that did the same thing. A good cleaning if the rings, a touch of rubber cement and they never slipped again. I used Leupold rings.
 
I have had great luck with Talley lightweights on almost all of my rifles. You can get a set for under $40.

You may consider this before you spend to much time and money sorting this issue out.
 
I broke down and bought a scope mounting kit with lapping tool so I could make sure all my scopes were mounted correctly. I think it is definitely worth the money. if you have decent rings and lap them you shouldn't have a problem with scopes moving. if you don't want to do that I have also used the DNZ game reapers and they supposedly do not need lapping.
 
What's your ring and base make/model, and torque poundage on ring and base screws? Even relatively soft Talleys can take 15-20 lbs. or more. As stick would say, gotta start at the start.
 
I have never lapped.
The only time i have ever had an issue was new mounts provided by a gunshop as part of the deal, i know Warne have their fan's, but i noticed movement on the scope, sold the Warne rings, bought Leupold rings and problem solved.
Cheers
Richard
 
I started with the factory rings and noticed the slipping. Done some research and seen it was a common problem so I bought the dnz game reapers and they did the same thing. I got it to stop by putting blue painters tape in the rings. I didn't know if lapping would solve the problem so I could take the tape out.
 
To be clear, lapping is not a solution to a slipping scope, it is a solution to imperfections in the rings to ensure they don't stress the internal workings of the scope. I suppose if your current rings are only contacting the scope over a small surface area, it might help.
 
I started with the factory rings and noticed the slipping. Done some research and seen it was a common problem so I bought the dnz game reapers and they did the same thing. I got it to stop by putting blue painters tape in the rings. I didn't know if lapping would solve the problem so I could take the tape out.
If you're screws are at 25 lbs in DNZ's and still slipping under .308 recoil I'm at a loss.
 
To be clear, lapping is not a solution to a slipping scope, it is a solution to imperfections in the rings to ensure they don't stress the internal workings of the scope. I suppose if your current rings are only contacting the scope over a small surface area, it might help.

In my opinion (I'm no expert) lapping your rings before mounting your scope can help with scope movement/slippage by increasing the contact surface area between the rings and scope. more surface area should mean more grip. this is a .308 he is shooting, so a well mounted scope with lapped rings should be all he needs to stop the slippage.
 
If you're screws are at 25 lbs in DNZ's and still slipping under .308 recoil I'm at a loss.

me too. that just doesn't make sense. I have DNZ game reaper on a 270, 243 and 30-06 and have never had one slip. I did use a torque driver to make sure they were torqued to the correct inch pounds.
 
Appears to be an aluminum unimount. If there is any variance between the action and the base they twist. I would bed it and lap it myself.
 
me too. that just doesn't make sense. I have DNZ game reaper on a 270, 243 and 30-06 and have never had one slip. I did use a torque driver to make sure they were torqued to the correct inch pounds.

X3 I have them on .243, .270, 6.5 creed, 7mmRUM, and my .50 muzzleloader. Mount, torque, and forget!!! Do you have the proper ones for the scope? 1'" or 30MM?
 
I lap mine now,the few. 30-06 & MZ.
Leupold scope, base & rings on 1st mount,& just put masking tape down & torqued. Never slipped.
Changed to Talley's recently just lapped & mounted,torqued a Zeiss . Good to go.
Talley's on the MZ,same thing,lapped mounted & torqued. Perfect. And that scope takes a beating.
 
Well I ordered the wheeler scope mounting kit that comes with everything lapping bars torque driver and levels it was $90. Hopefully it works if not I guess I will just go back to the tape. I also have a 300 win mag tikka I just put tape on the factory rings. No need to spend extra money if I just have to use tape anyways
 
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