PEAX Equipment

Suggestions for a good Elk cartridge?

Just read an article in field in stream about how anything under a .338 win mag will just bounce of the hide, as such I recently started using .50 BMG... bit heavy to lug around but it's a feather weight compared to my 20mm which I use primarily for moose and brown bears.
 
Yep. Those dinky little .30s can reach further but when a 430gr freight train goes through, it's lights out. I love my Marlin Guide Gun. I've shot everything from 150gr collar button bullets to 430gr cast. The whitetail I shot didn't like the 430 too much. Bang flop and very little meat loss. I load mine to about 1600fps and call it good.

I just got a new mold for my 45-70. It's called the 462 Hammer (eluding to the nominal casting diameter). Specifically designed for the Marlin 1895 since they tend to like bullets aroun .459-.461. Should throw a 350 HP or 378 solid with wheel weight lead. Making for some bad medicine for timber hunting and shots to 200 (I don't have a scoped lever gun)

Back to the topic I started elk hunting with a 300WSM then went down to 7mm-08 and went to a 270Win. A new VX3i on the 7mm-08 has brought it back into the rotation while the 300WSM sits unfired for the 5th season in a row.

I am considering a 6.5 creedmoor. I have a 30.06 but can't get close enough to make what I would consider an accurate, lethal shot.
Unless the 30-06 you have can't shoot the side of a barn that statement makes zero sense. The 30-06 will continue to be one of the best universal rounds in North America and is lethal at the same distances as the 6.5 creedmoor.
 
Plenty on here with more Western experience than me, but I'll say that 300 yards comes up quick. You should be comfortable shooting to 400 yards. If your .30-06 is accurate, work with it and spend money on quality glass.
 
To jump on the train, I need some advice for a rifle. Never hunted out west, but hoping to turn it into a habit (or find a job out there and move for the hobbies). I haven't bought the rifle yet due to sticker shock, and not entirely knowing what I want/need.

I'm looking for a gun to use for elk and mule deer, and I kinda like the Browning X-Bolt composite (action, trigger, weight, fit), but can't decide between .308 and 7mm. Short action, short barrel, and cheaper ammo, or more gun with the option to practice at long range? And if I ever say goodbye to my current 270, will the 7mm be overkill for whitetail? I hunt for meat, not antlers, so I'd like to not destroy the animal.

Other less serious considerations are 7mm-08 and 300 Win Mag, but I don't know enough about the 7mm-08 ballistics or ammo selection and price to judge, and I know the 300 is overkill for Ozarks whitetail (and not so good for the wallet, either).

I own a Ruger Model 44 and some oddball custom .270 with a Mauser action and an oversized wood stock that weighs more than it should. I grew up in IL, and chase whitetail in MO, so I'm set on rifles for stands or drives when I hunt with the family. Also have a rifled 12ga, but that's another story.

Side note- I could borrow a Ruger American 270 to chase elk this fall, if anyone could recommend the right ammo. But I'd rather not borrow, since I can't practice with the gun regularly.
Do you reload? If not, I'd strongly suggest a 308 Win. More than enough for the game you want to hunt and ammo anywhere and everywhere. If you decide to use your 270, which would be fine, I'd go with 150gr bullets. It may be more cost effective to restock the Mauser you have vs. buying a new rifle.
 
I have killed elk with a 308, .280, & 30-06. My preference is the '06. It does the job plus any corner market has cartridges.
 
Use the 30-06. Save the cash for better optics, tags, gas, a Yeti cooler, ammo, etc. Nothing wrong with that cartridge!
 
Don't waste your money on Leupold. You can find something better for cheaper.
I had a bushnell on my 300 win and thank god for a stiff wind to be able to defog it I was sitting with my scope into the wind just thinking this is going to be the moment that he steps out I just know it! Buy American.
 
I have a Browning 30.06 I use for Elk. It will do the job for sure, but there are better rifles out there. In my rifle, it will not pattern a 180 gr. bullet satisfactorily. It does far better with a 165 gr. bullet. I'm using the Hornady SST ammo.
I also don't think this rifle is a long range shooter. Bullet drop is significant beyond say 250 yds.
My rifle kicked like a angry Mule until I put a muzzle break on it. That tamed it down practically 30%!
So, if you stay with your 30.06 for the time being, see if your experience is similar to mine.
Good luck.
 
As for shooting the 30.06 out to 400 yards, lacking a range compensating scope, etc. just know your bullet drop is somewhere in the ballpark of 3 ft. I don't even have a range finder, so speaking for myself, I'd solely be guessing at the yardage. I guess I'd probably either try to get closer, or pass on the shot if it was me.
IMHO, this is one of the major shortcomings of my .06.
http://www.shooterscalculator.com/b...80gr+Sierra+Matchking&submitst=+Create+Chart+
 
I am considering a 6.5 creedmoor. I have a 30.06 but can't get close enough to make what I would consider an accurate, lethal shot.

I use a 30-06 as my primary gun and have killed Elk and Deer with it without any issues. It does start to drop fast past 200yrds but as others have stated, I would spend your money on better optics preferably something with a turret vs buying a new caliber gun. I say preferably a turret because I have found those long range shots with BDC reticles to be fairly hard because the markings never line up with even numbers. Its always 317, 472, etc and youre having to do a lot of estimating between markings whereas on a turret you can dial it in to the exact distance of a target.

I have a Swarovski BT on mine and like to shoot steel gongs at the range from 200 - 600yrds. I have no trouble making these long range shots with the turret. If you do decide to still buy a new caliber, I'd do a little more research first. I'm not an expert on the 6.5 Creedmoor but when I put it into the Swarovski ballistic program and choose similar ammo (hornady sst superformance), the creedmoor is really not much flatter flying than the 30-06. See the picture below. I tried to match up the two images as close as I could but you'll see the creedmoore is only +- a couple inches out to 600yrds.

6.5 vs 30.06.jpg
 
I've killed or seen elk killed with .257 Roberts, .270, .280ai, .308, 7MM and 30-06. Based on my experience,.257 Roberts is the starting point for an elk rifle.
 
Caliber can be about any size elk don't care what they are shot with. Be comfortable with what you are using at a range you are 100% confident in. For a light weight hunting rifle I like the tikka t3 stainless they are now the tx3. They are extremely light weight and are tack drivers. Some people don't like the plastic features but for what I want it works really well. A total of 12 shots zeroed and grouped to the size of a quarter at 200 yrds.
 
Where's a dead horse? I want to kick it.

You don't kick dead horses, you beat them. I don't usually reccomend it cause it ain't for everyone, but the .300 RUM is a superb elk cartridge. Thinking bout taking mine down to SE Montana this Fall. mtmuley
 
The cartridge you choose may depend on whether you are a local or a non resident. If you're a local you can use a smaller cartridge since you probably can turn down a shot if the presentation isn't perfect and come back another day. If you are a NR on the last day of an expensive guided hunt and all you can see is the elk's hip quartering away at 325 yds with the rest of the bull obstructed by foliage, you will need a deep penetrating bullet heavy and strong enough to bust the pelvis, penetrate 4.5 feet of intestines and spongy paunch filled with wet browse to reach the heart lung cavity to put the elk down quickly. That usually means a heavy partition type bullet pushed at a speed that will do the job at that long range, most likely a magnum. GJ
 
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