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VX2 or 3 for Rem .260

Muskeez

Muskeez

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Joined
Aug 21, 2012
Messages
1,745
Location
NW Iowa
Putting together a rifle for a Wyoming antelope hunt with my daughter. Found a Rem. Model Seven .260 with laminate stock that has had exactly 20 rounds through it so far. Now I need to put a scope on it. Pretty sure I will go with Leupold and get it from Scmallts as he has some pretty good pricing. I want to be able to (after a lot of practice) shoot at 100, 200, 300 , and 400 yards. So here are my questions as this is only my 2nd rifle I've owned, we only hunt with bow and Muzzleloader in Iowa:

Do I need Adjustable Objective (A.O.) ??

Thoughts and experience with the B&C reticle vs. the LR reticle?

I'm not concerned about the VX3 being $100ish more than the VX2, I just want the right scope for the job. The VX2 comes with LR reticle and the VX3 comes with the B&C. I called Leupold and they said the only difference is the reticle picture/style, and that the hold over lines have nearly the same gaps. Of course the coatings and light transmission are better on the 3 than the 2, any advise or experience on the reticles?

Looking at something in the power range of 4-12x40 or 4.5 - 14x40, but I'm open to suggestions.

Thanks for any help!
Clay
 
My .260 gets delivered today.

I bought a VX3 2.5-8x36 from Schmaltz and plan on putting an M-1 turret on it. I'm partial to the 3s over the 2s, especially in the smaller format. I also have the VX3 in 3.5-10x40 and 4.5-14x40, but opted for another 2.5-8x36 with M1 for my 260 as I have one on my 300WSM and like the smaller format./shorter lengths.

Something with CDS is also something to look at, I have it on both my 3.5-10 and 4.5-14.
 
I have a few VX-2's and just set up a new rifle with a VX-3 4.5-14X40 last year. Big mistake. I now want to replace my VX-2's with VX-3's, the glass is that much better. I went with the Duplex reticle and CDS to be able to dial in the exact range. I think it makes a difference when you are at the farther end of the effective range of your rifle to be able to dial in closer than a 50 yard elevation line.

Use the G7 ballistics program for your load to get a starting point and then update the data once you verify the results at the range. Print out a bullet drop sheet with 25 yard increments and when you are hunting, you simply range, dial and shoot.

http://www.gseven.com/ballistic-program
 
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If it were me...I'd go with a standard reticle rather than a multiple reticle, in particular for a younger hunter.

I dont like the cluttered up scopes or reticles...simple is usually better.

For up to 400 yards, I would just go with a standard reticle. I'd just pick reasonable zero of say...200 yards, which will likely allow you to hold on hair to 300ish. Calculate your hold-over values for 300, 350, and 400 and tape those values to your stock. More likely than not, your shot distances will be 250 or less.

Shoot a bunch to verify your hold-overs and go hunt your antelope.

Simple is better...IMO, in particular for younger or newer hunters.

Cant go wrong with a vx2 or vx3, thats just a personal choice and I really cant tell much difference between them.
 
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Thanks for the quick replies. I was leaning away from the CDS system since I will be doing all of my practicing in flatland Iowa and hunting in Wyoming with different climate and elevations. Also, since I am so new at this I don't even know what load I will be using. For now I have 3 different boxes of factory loads and I will see which one the gun seems to prefer. If I do the CDS thing, then I need to get the load chronographed... just seems like a lot of technical stuff,... for a newbie like me anyway... I will likely only be doing one rifle hunt per year for antelope and possibly mule deer in the future.
 
For shots passed 300 the ao becomes important. It's all about paralax there and at a distance it can mean a few inches in accuracy. Higher mag will negate some of this. I love your mag range, own piles of scopes in it. The better glass really is worth it. The bc offers windage reference and can be a little easier to see in low light then the lr. Changing your magnification will change your point of impact so you will be using the references at max mag. As suggested, that is where the cds comes in and the first set of turrets is free and easy to set up. Great rifle setup by the way, I want it.
 
If I do the CDS thing, then I need to get the load chronographed..
Click to expand...

Not necessarily, you can just leave the basic MOA dial on it and use that to shoot at different distances and adjust the dial accordingly. After you've determined the correct adjustments for say 2-500 yards make yourself a cheat sheet to put on the stock.

Next year when you might have some more time you can get your custom dial ordered.
 
BuzzH said:
If it were me...I'd go with a standard reticle rather than a multiple reticle, in particular for a younger hunter.

I dont like the cluttered up scopes or reticles...simple is usually better.

For up to 400 yards, I would just go with a standard reticle. I'd just pick reasonable zero of say...200 yards, which will likely allow you to hold on hair to 300ish. Calculate your hold-over values for 300, 350, and 400 and tape those values to your stock. More likely than not, your shot distances will be 250 or less.

Shoot a bunch to verify your hold-overs and go hunt your antelope.

Simple is better...IMO, in particular for younger or newer hunters.

Cant go wrong with a vx2 or vx3, thats just a personal choice and I really cant tell much difference between them.
Click to expand...
This! Multiple line reticles only work at a given power in a variable scope. For up to 400yds I doubt the elevation or AO would be enough to matter.

If you really want to simple for that range, I'd go with a fixed 6X and the LR duplex. Sight in the bottom dot for 400yds and find out where the others hit.
 
jryoung said:
Not necessarily, you can just leave the basic MOA dial on it and use that to shoot at different distances and adjust the dial accordingly. After you've determined the correct adjustments for say 2-500 yards make yourself a cheat sheet to put on the stock.

Next year when you might have some more time you can get your custom dial ordered.
Click to expand...

Correct, Chrono is not needed but recommended. Factory ammo usually has a velocity spec but they tend to fudge the numbers and different guns will shoot different speeds from barrel length and pressure factors.

I have a couple guns with the BDC style reticle, and a couple with turrets. They both have pros and cons. With the BDC style reticle I try to make a tiny cheat sheet to remind me of what yardages are what likes and tape it on the scope tube in case my fading memory fails me.
 
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