Ollin Magnetic Digiscoping System

209 primers for muzzleloader

I have never weighted BH 209.

By volume,
100 gr works best in my Omega.
Always measured in same brass tube model dispenser. I fill speed loaders the same.

He must be reading some new 180 deg opposite info off the web....
...cause even my BH 209 bottle says weigh by volume.
 
I have never weighted BH 209.

By volume,
100 gr works best in my Omega.
Always measured in same brass tube model dispenser. I fill speed loaders the same.

He must be reading some new 180 deg opposite info off the web....
...cause even my BH 209 bottle says weigh by volume.

That's fine. All I'm saying is verify by weight at least once to make sure your measure/tube is correct. The Blackhorn website even says it can be weighed using the .7 conversion. If you followed the link I posted, you'll see that by volume, what showed as 100 gr. was (when weighed) was actually 119 gr. volume (120 is max). The graduations on the tube I was using were obviously off. If I would have started there and gone up in charge, I'd have been over pressure.

Are you 100% sure your measure is correct? Have you verified by weighing it, using Blackhorn's own listed method, of the .7 conversion? If your method works for you, great, but telling a newbie to MLs using BH that it shouldn't be verified is like telling a newcomer to reloading to just go buy a cheap digital scale and trust it without verifying the scale against another.

And since BH is almost a smokeless powder in disguise, and since BH themselves say it can be accurately weighed (certainly more accurate than looking at fat graduation lines on a glass tube), and since consistency in EVERYTHING you do in muzzleloading is critical, why wouldn't you check to verify you have what you think you have?

Emrah
 
I did weigh it once,several loads to check.
Did it with a range master I know,retired Gunny.
And I do know it can still vary a bit due to texture of BH.
My tube can be 102-96 @ 100 mark.
What ever it is,it works best in my MZ where it is set. @100 mark.
I don't shoot max or minumum loads in any weapon. Not safe in my opine.
 
What first clued me in was the extra "shove" I got with the BH load. It felt like a harder shove than what I felt with Triple 7 and 250 grain bullet I had been shooting before. Now that I know the actual graduation mark I need to fill it too, I am confident I can do that in the field.

Emrah
 
Learning to seat a load consistantly and get the feel of it was biggest learning curve when I got a inline MZ for sure! I have my rod marked with elec. tape.
 
Black powder and Pyrodex is very corrosive. In a new inline, I would not use it. Go with one of the non-corrosive powders. I shot 777 for several years and it formed a hard ring ahead of where the combustion is. It shot well and was relatively easy to clean, except for the ring.

I switched to Alliant Black MZ and it is a real good powder. Very easy to clean and good velocity and accuracy with my Hornady FPB bullets.

The Lee bullets should work REAL well.
 
+1 for burning Blackhorn 209

I would donate any pellets....pyrodex...FFF or FF
Pyrodex pellets or loose powder will produce a crud ring that has attributed to broken ramrods and lots of wasted time and energy.
With the Blackhorn 209 there is no need for water based black powder cleaning solvents or lubes.
I now use Rem oil and copper powder solvents same as my modern rifles.
All that said be sure to read on Blackhorn website for specific "hot" 209 primers (I use CCI 209) for my TC Omega.
Regarding smokeless powder....my state does not allow or I would have a Savage Model 10 and call it good.

10Dogs
 
I guess I'll add my 2 cents.

With muzzleloaders, the loads that work for everyone else really don't matter. You really need to shoot a bunch of different bullet/sabbot/powder/primer combos to see what works best for your gun. You can buy two of the exact same guns and they may like two totally different load combos.
I'm currently shooting 110 grains of BH209 with a Barnes T-EZ and a CCI primer but I plan on playing around with everything a little more this summer.
A few tips I learned over time:
1) mark your ram road to identify load.
2) wrap your breach plug with plumbers tape to reduce blowback and easier cleaning.
3) BH 209 needs a hot primer.
4) 777 leaves a nasty crud ring.
5) use a loading jag to prevent bullet deformities.
 
Finally shot the rifle today. The wind kept me from accomplishing anything but I did get it in paper. Blackhorn is some strange looking stuff and is the single most expensive powder I've ever used. I had troubles getting it to pour out of my measure but I wasn't surprised considering it looks like hollow 4350. I shot 10 rounds today and the rifle loaded the same from round 1 to round 10. I'm hoping for a calm day soon so I can shoot to 100 and pattern a few loads.
 
No wind today so I finally got to mess around with the rifle. At 100 it shoots 1" groups. It took two shots to get it dialed in and I took 3 to confirm. I shot the 200 and 300 yard gongs with it but could not confirm the exact hit locations.

I was going to mess with the load to check for accuracy but I am satisfied with 110 grains of Blackhorn and the 250grain SST w/ Harvester sabot. In this pick, the top left shot is getting dialed in and the other three confirmed I was hitting.
 

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Nice, but remember that muzzleloaders are notorious for the clean bore, first shot flier. Lots of voodoo to it. Some rifles don't do it; most do. Some guys just sight in for where their first shot will hit. Some try to pre-foul the bore by firing 2 to 3 primers to soot up the breach area prior to loading. Lots of techniques out there. You really should check out the Modern Muzzleloader forum. Great info from experienced people. Friendly too.

Emrah
 
Nice shooting!

Are you using the green or black harvester sabot?

Black with Factory Second 250grain Hornady SST.

Nice, but remember that muzzleloaders are notorious for the clean bore, first shot flier. Lots of voodoo to it. Some rifles don't do it; most do. Some guys just sight in for where their first shot will hit. Some try to pre-foul the bore by firing 2 to 3 primers to soot up the breach area prior to loading.

That's how my .54 shoots on a clean bore. I'm thinking of running a small powder charge under a 50cal nitro card to foul the barrel for this rifle
 
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